(My journal, 06/08/09)
Miles hiked: 11.x, short day following yesterday's near-20.
Hiked with: Jim Dandy and Bee Man, but they walked down the road to get cheeseburgers and I hiked on, so I was alone for 8 miles of thoughts and rocks and finished an hour or so ahead of them.
Stayed at: Blackburn AT Center, an actual house with wrap-around screened porch for eating, socializing, and sleeping (no access to actual house), 7 tentsites, a lukewarm solar shower, potable water from a hose, and a cabin with 4 bunks.
Weather: Cool and breezy.
Terrain: Steep ups and downs, and very rocky.
Bee Man, Jim Dandy, Solar Man and I stayed in the cabin. The 3-generation family slept on the screened porch, along with Lucky Star (a girl) and Pyrofly (a guy), who hike together and whom I've run into here and there for a couple months. It was good to see them again to say goodbye.
The caretaker cooked up a huge vat of spaghetti, with made-from-scratch sauce and Italian bread he'd also made himself, and brownies. Bee Man eats no wheat products and abstained, cooking up whatever lentil-rice mix he had there. I don't eat wheat, either, in general, but I took a chance and ate the dinner. Afterwards I took 2 Imodium tablets, then another before bed, and another on awakening, which allowed me to make it to the pit privy w/o having to make an emergency stop en route and dig a cat hole. Another tablet back in the cabin, and I was OK the rest of the day. Why does everything have to be made with wheat???
The cabin had a front porch, and after dinner I sat out there playing sad, sweet farewell songs on my Irish penny whistle. "Auld Lang Syne," and "God Be With You Till We Meet Again," the mood of which was shot when one of the guys, I'm not saying who, ripped this elongated, exaggerated fart, an everyday occurrence among hikers subsisting on dehydrated food and legumes, but this one rated probably an 8 out of 10, and that was the end of the sad sweet songs as typical ribald hiker hilarity took over. We have deteriorated into a bunch of dirtballs.
Solar Man had left the Trail for about 3 weeks and returned about 5 days ago. When he saw me he said, "Yard Sale! Gad! You look like a refugee from a war camp! Every time you go near a town you need to get 3 Big Macs!" Solar Man is fun. He's from Hawaii and has done IronMan Kona.
My last night on the Trail. Jim Dandy asked me, "Are you having regrets yet?" I said, "Yeah. But I'm doing the right thing."
I am. I can't wait to get on my bike again. I hope I can run. My tendons were aching today on the last section of the Roller Coaster. Not injured.... just stressed. My knees hurt, too, but I'm not worried about them. I have Achilles Tendon PTSD. My plantar fascia hurts as well, and my unhealed sub-callus blisters. Actually, now that I think of it, I hurt all over. Bedtime meds now include: Xanax to prevent nighttime panic attacks as well as induce sleep; Benadryl because my myriad bug bites itch (also helps with sleep); 600-800mg of ibuprofen, since as soon as I lie down my hips, thighbones, knees, shinbones, ankles and feet start to ache, about a 6 on a scale of 10. And of course, tonight, I included the Imodium as antidote to the bread-and-pasta dinner.
My last night. Harper's Ferry tomorrow will give me 1,013 miles. Even without the lure of SavageMan, I don't think I have another 1,170 miles in me. I am whupped.
Thursday, July 02, 2009
THE LAST DAYS
(My journal from 06/27/09)
The die is cast.
Steve has registered me for SavageMan and I'm going home from Harper's Ferry, WV, the day aftre tomorrow. This is my next to last night on the Trail, for this trip.
I am not finished with the AT.
Next year. Next year, a start from Harper's Ferry in early June will put me with the northbound thru-hikers, with plenty of companions. I'll finish in time for Steve's mother's 80th birthday party in mid-September.
Now that I'm leaving, I finally have my backpack adjusted to compensate for the loss of my butt curve. I bent the internal stays and added some closed-cell foam for sacral padding.
Now that I'm leaving, I finally have my socks figured our: Cool-Max liner socks + knee-hi hose + Smartwool hikers.
Now that I'm leaving, I finally have hiking partners whose distance and pace match mine. It has been a pleasure and privilege the past 2-3 weeks to hike with Jim Dandy (my age) and Bee Man (daughter Val's age.) Jim Dandy and I have had spirited discussions on religion, theology, philosophy, and a little politics, that have made me think and want to read up more.
But I am sure this is the right decision for me at this time. I'll probably cry for a week after getting home, and I've told Steve to be prepared for that.
When I think of not reaching the summit of Katahdin this trip, I feel regret.
When I think of not doing SavageMan this year, in this physical shape, living and training on the actual course, I feel heartbroken.
Heartbroken wins. SavageMan, here I come.
_____________
Miles hiked today: 19.8, over the first half of the "Roller Coaster" section on which I blew out my Achilles tendons last year. I'm stepping carefully and my ears are pricked for any suggestion of alarm bells coming from my heels.
Stayed at: Rod Hollow Shelter, where I stayed on that practice hike last year. I feel, again, that I'm home.
Shelter/tentsite companions: Jim Dandy, Bee Man, Bird, Freebird, Amero, and a 3-generation family consisting of 2 adult grandsons, 2 middle-aged sons, and the 77-yr-old matriarch, Nancy (trail name "Gran"), who hiked over 12 miles today with her progeny. They're out for a 3-day weekend, total of about 60 miles planned. Yup, Gran does that mileage. She was great fun to talk to. She started running at age 57 and in 20 years has run 400 races of various lengths, including 3 marathons. Her favorite distance is the half-marathon; marathons are too long and 5K and 10K too intense. Yup, she still runs, too, besides backpacking long days. She weighs 95 pounds and carries a 30-40-pound pack.
There was space in the shelter, but I tented. Just felt like it. I was next to the rippling creek. On my Irish penny whistle I played the hymn "In the Cross" because of the line, "Rest beyond the river."
The die is cast.
Steve has registered me for SavageMan and I'm going home from Harper's Ferry, WV, the day aftre tomorrow. This is my next to last night on the Trail, for this trip.
I am not finished with the AT.
Next year. Next year, a start from Harper's Ferry in early June will put me with the northbound thru-hikers, with plenty of companions. I'll finish in time for Steve's mother's 80th birthday party in mid-September.
Now that I'm leaving, I finally have my backpack adjusted to compensate for the loss of my butt curve. I bent the internal stays and added some closed-cell foam for sacral padding.
Now that I'm leaving, I finally have my socks figured our: Cool-Max liner socks + knee-hi hose + Smartwool hikers.
Now that I'm leaving, I finally have hiking partners whose distance and pace match mine. It has been a pleasure and privilege the past 2-3 weeks to hike with Jim Dandy (my age) and Bee Man (daughter Val's age.) Jim Dandy and I have had spirited discussions on religion, theology, philosophy, and a little politics, that have made me think and want to read up more.
But I am sure this is the right decision for me at this time. I'll probably cry for a week after getting home, and I've told Steve to be prepared for that.
When I think of not reaching the summit of Katahdin this trip, I feel regret.
When I think of not doing SavageMan this year, in this physical shape, living and training on the actual course, I feel heartbroken.
Heartbroken wins. SavageMan, here I come.
_____________
Miles hiked today: 19.8, over the first half of the "Roller Coaster" section on which I blew out my Achilles tendons last year. I'm stepping carefully and my ears are pricked for any suggestion of alarm bells coming from my heels.
Stayed at: Rod Hollow Shelter, where I stayed on that practice hike last year. I feel, again, that I'm home.
Shelter/tentsite companions: Jim Dandy, Bee Man, Bird, Freebird, Amero, and a 3-generation family consisting of 2 adult grandsons, 2 middle-aged sons, and the 77-yr-old matriarch, Nancy (trail name "Gran"), who hiked over 12 miles today with her progeny. They're out for a 3-day weekend, total of about 60 miles planned. Yup, Gran does that mileage. She was great fun to talk to. She started running at age 57 and in 20 years has run 400 races of various lengths, including 3 marathons. Her favorite distance is the half-marathon; marathons are too long and 5K and 10K too intense. Yup, she still runs, too, besides backpacking long days. She weighs 95 pounds and carries a 30-40-pound pack.
There was space in the shelter, but I tented. Just felt like it. I was next to the rippling creek. On my Irish penny whistle I played the hymn "In the Cross" because of the line, "Rest beyond the river."
Tuesday, June 30, 2009
SURE
6/25
I called Steve and told him i want to come home. Harper's Ferry will give me 1,013 miles, and I can touch the WV/MD line before I go.
Then I will have 10 weeks to train for Savageman. The only tricky part will be to see if i can run, and then build up to 13 miles.
I am so excited about Savageman. When I think about not hiking thru to Maine, I kind of feel like "Ah, shrug, I can continue next year" (that's the current plan) If I think about not doing Savageman, I feel like my heart is breaking.
So that's what I'm doing.
miles today: 17.5
miles to go: 67
I am on the home stretch. Front Royal, VA tomorrow. I've been there before. I've been all over this area. I know where I am. I'm home.
I called Steve and told him i want to come home. Harper's Ferry will give me 1,013 miles, and I can touch the WV/MD line before I go.
Then I will have 10 weeks to train for Savageman. The only tricky part will be to see if i can run, and then build up to 13 miles.
I am so excited about Savageman. When I think about not hiking thru to Maine, I kind of feel like "Ah, shrug, I can continue next year" (that's the current plan) If I think about not doing Savageman, I feel like my heart is breaking.
So that's what I'm doing.
miles today: 17.5
miles to go: 67
I am on the home stretch. Front Royal, VA tomorrow. I've been there before. I've been all over this area. I know where I am. I'm home.
NOT SURE
6/24
I'm definitely leaning towards the Savageman triathlon instead of the Trail, but haven't had the nerve yet to make the decision. I am tired in mind and body (which has dwindled down to muscle, skin, and bones) and I can never get my feet pain free. I have calluses that are rubbing blisters on the tissue beneath them, which are untreatable.
Miles traveled: 10.9 Short day.
Stayed at: Byrd's Nest #3 Hut (shelter) where mice ruled. Rustled in the backpacks during the night, and when chased out, would just sit and stare at us, brazenly licking whatever they'd found off their paws. They might as well have had their little middle finger pointed upwards.
Highlights: awesome cheeseburger lunch at a sit-down restaurant, "Skyland Dining Room" in Shenandoah National Park. They put us (Jim Dandy, Bee Man, and me) in an inconspicuous dark corner. On the trail, housekeeping and hygiene are limited to the most rudimentary methods, and we had to remember not to lick our plates and our fingers.
I'm definitely leaning towards the Savageman triathlon instead of the Trail, but haven't had the nerve yet to make the decision. I am tired in mind and body (which has dwindled down to muscle, skin, and bones) and I can never get my feet pain free. I have calluses that are rubbing blisters on the tissue beneath them, which are untreatable.
Miles traveled: 10.9 Short day.
Stayed at: Byrd's Nest #3 Hut (shelter) where mice ruled. Rustled in the backpacks during the night, and when chased out, would just sit and stare at us, brazenly licking whatever they'd found off their paws. They might as well have had their little middle finger pointed upwards.
Highlights: awesome cheeseburger lunch at a sit-down restaurant, "Skyland Dining Room" in Shenandoah National Park. They put us (Jim Dandy, Bee Man, and me) in an inconspicuous dark corner. On the trail, housekeeping and hygiene are limited to the most rudimentary methods, and we had to remember not to lick our plates and our fingers.
EVIL THOUGHTS
6/22
My blisters keep recurring even though my new boots are now two weeks old.
With my 20-pound weight loss, my pack doesn't fit right anymore. I've put extra padding where my bones are but I'm always adjusting and readjusting. sometimes my shoulder hurts all the way down my back.
I hurt. I hurt all over. I'm tired. I miss my husband, my dog, my mother, my piano, my friends.
I made a deal with myself that if I lost the joy I'd give myself two weeks before doing anything rash.
I don't know if I have the guts, or the feet, or the mental endurance, to finish this hike.
Miles today: 17.5, from South River Picnic Area (900.3) to Rock Spring Hut (917.8) still in Shenandoah National Park
miles to go: 1260.5 (except I'm not sure I want to right now)
companions: Still with Jim Dandy and Bee Man
Highlights: setting the afternoon pace and getting us to the shelter an hour earlier than original estimate without killing anyone (9 hours 45 minutes including food stop at a campground and detour to a Shelter to sign the register)
Taking pictures of the setting sun, a red ball predicting good weather tomorrow.
Watching a deer graze completely unafraid of us, ten feet away.
Marathons done:31.2
My blisters keep recurring even though my new boots are now two weeks old.
With my 20-pound weight loss, my pack doesn't fit right anymore. I've put extra padding where my bones are but I'm always adjusting and readjusting. sometimes my shoulder hurts all the way down my back.
I hurt. I hurt all over. I'm tired. I miss my husband, my dog, my mother, my piano, my friends.
I made a deal with myself that if I lost the joy I'd give myself two weeks before doing anything rash.
I don't know if I have the guts, or the feet, or the mental endurance, to finish this hike.
Miles today: 17.5, from South River Picnic Area (900.3) to Rock Spring Hut (917.8) still in Shenandoah National Park
miles to go: 1260.5 (except I'm not sure I want to right now)
companions: Still with Jim Dandy and Bee Man
Highlights: setting the afternoon pace and getting us to the shelter an hour earlier than original estimate without killing anyone (9 hours 45 minutes including food stop at a campground and detour to a Shelter to sign the register)
Taking pictures of the setting sun, a red ball predicting good weather tomorrow.
Watching a deer graze completely unafraid of us, ten feet away.
Marathons done:31.2
6/21
Happy Father's Day! Happy Summer Solstice!
Hiked from:Pinefield Hut, Shenandoah State Park, mile 885.7
Hike to: South River Picnic Area in Park, mile 900.3 (BROKE THE 900 MARK!!)
Miles done: 15.6
Weather: Sunny, windy, 80 degrees F (same as yesterday, which actually started out looking threatening but cleared up)
Camping in: Tent, in a grassy tree-surrounded meadow in the picnic area. This is no doubt illegal but we're quiet, not hurting or disturbing anyone or anything (except the grass), and we're too whupped to go on 5 more miles to the next hut. Plus, I cleaned up the ladies room and picked up picnickers' trash.
I. Am. So. Tired. Yesterday's 21+ miles left their mark on me today. I was dragging. My pack was hurting my shoulder and back and I couldn't get it adjusted to stop hurting. I took 800mg of Motrin which helped a little. at lunch I couldn't get enough to eat. Had tuna Fritos (very good together), then peanut butter straight out of the jar )probably nearly half a cupful), then a couple mini candy bars dipped in PB, then a bag of fruit/nut mix, and after that I still felt I could have taken on a big steak dinner had one been available.
Then the rest of the afternoon I couldn't get enough water. Literally. I was dying of thirst (Fritos, a vat of peanut butter) but water sources were scarce. When we found the picnic area I drank 40oz straight down and still wasn't peeing an hour later so I drank 20 more oz, which shortly in a modest amount of pee but enough that it counted.
Traveling still with Bee Man (used to keep bees) and Jim Dandy. also, a father-son duo is hiking southbound ("SOBO") from Harper's ferry, WV to Waynesboro, VA. They're camping illegally in the meadow, too.
Highlights: Finding Lamb's Quarters to cook into my dinner soup. Yum. It's one of the most delicious and nutritious leafy greens on the planet but no one eats it because it's a weed. They pull it out of their gardens and toss it in the burn pile. Look it up on Wikipedia to learn about a vegetable that will change your menus.
Happy Father's Day! Happy Summer Solstice!
Hiked from:Pinefield Hut, Shenandoah State Park, mile 885.7
Hike to: South River Picnic Area in Park, mile 900.3 (BROKE THE 900 MARK!!)
Miles done: 15.6
Weather: Sunny, windy, 80 degrees F (same as yesterday, which actually started out looking threatening but cleared up)
Camping in: Tent, in a grassy tree-surrounded meadow in the picnic area. This is no doubt illegal but we're quiet, not hurting or disturbing anyone or anything (except the grass), and we're too whupped to go on 5 more miles to the next hut. Plus, I cleaned up the ladies room and picked up picnickers' trash.
I. Am. So. Tired. Yesterday's 21+ miles left their mark on me today. I was dragging. My pack was hurting my shoulder and back and I couldn't get it adjusted to stop hurting. I took 800mg of Motrin which helped a little. at lunch I couldn't get enough to eat. Had tuna Fritos (very good together), then peanut butter straight out of the jar )probably nearly half a cupful), then a couple mini candy bars dipped in PB, then a bag of fruit/nut mix, and after that I still felt I could have taken on a big steak dinner had one been available.
Then the rest of the afternoon I couldn't get enough water. Literally. I was dying of thirst (Fritos, a vat of peanut butter) but water sources were scarce. When we found the picnic area I drank 40oz straight down and still wasn't peeing an hour later so I drank 20 more oz, which shortly in a modest amount of pee but enough that it counted.
Traveling still with Bee Man (used to keep bees) and Jim Dandy. also, a father-son duo is hiking southbound ("SOBO") from Harper's ferry, WV to Waynesboro, VA. They're camping illegally in the meadow, too.
Highlights: Finding Lamb's Quarters to cook into my dinner soup. Yum. It's one of the most delicious and nutritious leafy greens on the planet but no one eats it because it's a weed. They pull it out of their gardens and toss it in the burn pile. Look it up on Wikipedia to learn about a vegetable that will change your menus.
PINEFIELD HUT
6/20
Shenandoah National Park
Miles traveled 21.x (not sure since our campsite last night was a "non-established" unmarked one.)
Anyway, it was a new one-day AT distance PR for me. For all of us (me, Jim Dandy, and Bee Man.) Took us 12 hours including a couple of long stops.
Sleeping tonight in a shelter, Pinefield Hut, at mile 885.7.
Distance left to Katahdin: 1292.6 I've broken the 1300 mark for distance remaining!!
Highlights: seeing two turkeys accompanied by a gaggle of stringy, awkward looking chicks. Buying a cold Pepsi and a cold orange juice at a campground store (RV/tent campground) Drank 'em both down. Seeing lots of pale pink wild roses. Having an after-dinner "hot toddy" made with Sleepy Time tea, orange Crystal Light, extra sugar, and orange vodka (sent by Steve, he sometimes sends me nip bottles). Seeing the shelter after 21.x miles. Hitting the sack.
Shenandoah National Park
Miles traveled 21.x (not sure since our campsite last night was a "non-established" unmarked one.)
Anyway, it was a new one-day AT distance PR for me. For all of us (me, Jim Dandy, and Bee Man.) Took us 12 hours including a couple of long stops.
Sleeping tonight in a shelter, Pinefield Hut, at mile 885.7.
Distance left to Katahdin: 1292.6 I've broken the 1300 mark for distance remaining!!
Highlights: seeing two turkeys accompanied by a gaggle of stringy, awkward looking chicks. Buying a cold Pepsi and a cold orange juice at a campground store (RV/tent campground) Drank 'em both down. Seeing lots of pale pink wild roses. Having an after-dinner "hot toddy" made with Sleepy Time tea, orange Crystal Light, extra sugar, and orange vodka (sent by Steve, he sometimes sends me nip bottles). Seeing the shelter after 21.x miles. Hitting the sack.
WAYNESBORO, VA
6/19
Stayed at Grace Lutheran Church Hostel-and how wonderful it was! Volunteer ministry with food, cots, computers, kitchen, and FREE (runs on donations.) Everyone was more than helpful.
Other hikers there: Jim Dandy, Hot Feet (a girl whose boots are 100% leather and too warm) Bee Man, and two others I didn't know.
Waiting now for a ride back to the trail. 13-18 miles planned depending on start time. I added padding to my shoulder straps to compensate for my weight loss. Someone had left closed-cell foam in the hiker box so it was free.
Weather forecast:90's, humid, afternoon T-storms. We'll see!
Evening-Traveled to: Dry camping in the woods in Shenandoah National Park near Skyline Drive.
Miles: about 10. The first day out of town is always hard because the food bags are full, we've eten unaccustomed food, slept indoors, started out late. We were tired all day.
Traveled with: Jim Dandy and Bee Man
The three of us found a flat place big enough for three tents. It's quiet, companionable and pleasant. I'm hungry, a couple hours after supper, but my food bag is hanging in a tree. So I'll go to sleep and then I won't feel it.
A whippoorwill is singing.
Stayed at Grace Lutheran Church Hostel-and how wonderful it was! Volunteer ministry with food, cots, computers, kitchen, and FREE (runs on donations.) Everyone was more than helpful.
Other hikers there: Jim Dandy, Hot Feet (a girl whose boots are 100% leather and too warm) Bee Man, and two others I didn't know.
Waiting now for a ride back to the trail. 13-18 miles planned depending on start time. I added padding to my shoulder straps to compensate for my weight loss. Someone had left closed-cell foam in the hiker box so it was free.
Weather forecast:90's, humid, afternoon T-storms. We'll see!
Evening-Traveled to: Dry camping in the woods in Shenandoah National Park near Skyline Drive.
Miles: about 10. The first day out of town is always hard because the food bags are full, we've eten unaccustomed food, slept indoors, started out late. We were tired all day.
Traveled with: Jim Dandy and Bee Man
The three of us found a flat place big enough for three tents. It's quiet, companionable and pleasant. I'm hungry, a couple hours after supper, but my food bag is hanging in a tree. So I'll go to sleep and then I won't feel it.
A whippoorwill is singing.
Monday, June 29, 2009
6/18
Waynesboro, VA
miles done:852.5
miles to go:1325.8 - 1330.8 depending on source of info.
I can't keep up the stream of thought journal. It's too much for me to write, too much for Avery to type, too much for anyone to read.
I lost Young Scott. Just couldn't keep up with a man 1/2 my age. :) Silly to try. I've hiked alone and with others, passed them or been passed and been alone again. Last couple days I've been with Jim Dandy, who hikes Young scott's miles but at my pace. We'll see how long it lasts. Actually I could go faster but what's the point, if the days endpoint is the same, and we're there so one of us can help if the other gets hurt?
I've had beautiful days and horrible days. Yesterday was the "second worst"- cold, raining, windy, I had really painful blisters. Not sure about these new boots. My worst day, I wrote in the register at the shelter (maybe 5 days ago) "I can't go on like this. I'm miserable. I want to go home and train for the triathlon my friends are training for."
I have this signature:

That day I signed

A lot of people the next day asked if I was really okay. I was, after a night's sleep, despite rain during the night that required an hour's cleanup before I could load and go.
Off now for a real lunch. I've lost 18.5 pounds, down now to 111.5 according to the scale at the YMCA.
I'll try real hard to record each day's mileage, weather, companions, and highlights like seeing a scarlet tanager. Thanks for reading - I'm still in the game.
Waynesboro, VA
miles done:852.5
miles to go:1325.8 - 1330.8 depending on source of info.
I can't keep up the stream of thought journal. It's too much for me to write, too much for Avery to type, too much for anyone to read.
I lost Young Scott. Just couldn't keep up with a man 1/2 my age. :) Silly to try. I've hiked alone and with others, passed them or been passed and been alone again. Last couple days I've been with Jim Dandy, who hikes Young scott's miles but at my pace. We'll see how long it lasts. Actually I could go faster but what's the point, if the days endpoint is the same, and we're there so one of us can help if the other gets hurt?
I've had beautiful days and horrible days. Yesterday was the "second worst"- cold, raining, windy, I had really painful blisters. Not sure about these new boots. My worst day, I wrote in the register at the shelter (maybe 5 days ago) "I can't go on like this. I'm miserable. I want to go home and train for the triathlon my friends are training for."
I have this signature:

That day I signed

A lot of people the next day asked if I was really okay. I was, after a night's sleep, despite rain during the night that required an hour's cleanup before I could load and go.
Off now for a real lunch. I've lost 18.5 pounds, down now to 111.5 according to the scale at the YMCA.
I'll try real hard to record each day's mileage, weather, companions, and highlights like seeing a scarlet tanager. Thanks for reading - I'm still in the game.
HARD TO KEEP UP
6/10
It's hard to walk all day, then set up camp, cook and eat supper, socialize with shelter or camp mates, and still have time to write about all that's happened and still get the 10 or so hours of sleep that it takes to recover. I never thought that keeping up with paperwork would be a problem on the AT. so, backtracking a couple days....
6/8 (Monday) Young Scott and I had milkshakes in town and finally headed back to the Trail about 2:30; with only 5 miles to the next shelter, we expected to be there between 4:30 and 5:00. I t was hot (the thermometer in town had said 88.5 degrees F) and very humid, We had heavy loads from the re-supply (A resupply adds 10 pounds to my pack), I was a little awkward in my new boots, and Young Scott's milkshake wasn't sitting real well. He felt really ill and kept stopping to sit on his pack and rest. I stepped in cow shit with my new boots when the trail crossed a pasture. :(
We saw two curved sticks that had randomly fallen into a perfect Christian fish.
Fullhardt Knob shelter had an elaborate cistern system that collected rainwater from the roof and piped it down the hill to a faucet. Presto- running water! Funny color, though, and a sign warned to boil or treat it (which we do with all our water anyway).
The shelter also had what appeared to be thousands of tiny, almost microscopic baby spiders, little tan dots scurrying rapidly over the fire pit, picnic table, and anything placed near them: boots, cooking equipment, food bags, arms, laps, anything at rest. I couldn't imagine how fast their little legs must be moving. It looked like a microscopic Pac-Man game.
It's hard to walk all day, then set up camp, cook and eat supper, socialize with shelter or camp mates, and still have time to write about all that's happened and still get the 10 or so hours of sleep that it takes to recover. I never thought that keeping up with paperwork would be a problem on the AT. so, backtracking a couple days....
6/8 (Monday) Young Scott and I had milkshakes in town and finally headed back to the Trail about 2:30; with only 5 miles to the next shelter, we expected to be there between 4:30 and 5:00. I t was hot (the thermometer in town had said 88.5 degrees F) and very humid, We had heavy loads from the re-supply (A resupply adds 10 pounds to my pack), I was a little awkward in my new boots, and Young Scott's milkshake wasn't sitting real well. He felt really ill and kept stopping to sit on his pack and rest. I stepped in cow shit with my new boots when the trail crossed a pasture. :(
We saw two curved sticks that had randomly fallen into a perfect Christian fish.
Fullhardt Knob shelter had an elaborate cistern system that collected rainwater from the roof and piped it down the hill to a faucet. Presto- running water! Funny color, though, and a sign warned to boil or treat it (which we do with all our water anyway).
The shelter also had what appeared to be thousands of tiny, almost microscopic baby spiders, little tan dots scurrying rapidly over the fire pit, picnic table, and anything placed near them: boots, cooking equipment, food bags, arms, laps, anything at rest. I couldn't imagine how fast their little legs must be moving. It looked like a microscopic Pac-Man game.
CATCHING UP
6/8
So Gaia and I left Mountain Harbour Hostel and proceeded to get lost. At the top of a long hill were 5 paths and roads, none of which had white blazes. Rumor had it that local folk, disgruntled in property line disputes, obliterated the existing blazes and painted blazes elsewhere to lead hikers astray. Whether or not that's true I don't know, but we picked a road and now and then we saw a blaze so we kept at it for a mile or so before we decided it couldn't be right so we headed back and discovered a turn-off so well marked we couldn't understand how we missed it. So we got back onto the Trail with an extra 2 miles or so to our credit. It was a long-miles day to begin with: the Trail Days Festival in Damascus, VA is May 14-17 and everyone is pushing big miles to get there. There are a lot of vendors, like at a marathon expo, good deals on gear, and good fair-type food. And a parade featuring thousands of current and former AT hikers. We ended up with a 16+2 mile day. Exhausted.
So Gaia and I left Mountain Harbour Hostel and proceeded to get lost. At the top of a long hill were 5 paths and roads, none of which had white blazes. Rumor had it that local folk, disgruntled in property line disputes, obliterated the existing blazes and painted blazes elsewhere to lead hikers astray. Whether or not that's true I don't know, but we picked a road and now and then we saw a blaze so we kept at it for a mile or so before we decided it couldn't be right so we headed back and discovered a turn-off so well marked we couldn't understand how we missed it. So we got back onto the Trail with an extra 2 miles or so to our credit. It was a long-miles day to begin with: the Trail Days Festival in Damascus, VA is May 14-17 and everyone is pushing big miles to get there. There are a lot of vendors, like at a marathon expo, good deals on gear, and good fair-type food. And a parade featuring thousands of current and former AT hikers. We ended up with a 16+2 mile day. Exhausted.
6/8
Young Scott and I are sitting outside the Post Office in Troutsville, VA, leaning against our packs, enjoying the shade, waiting for the P.O. to re-open after the government mandated hour long lunch break. Young Scott has to pick up his food box and I'm mailing some stuff home. Then we're headed back out to the Trail for a couple-hour hike to the nearest shelter (Fullhardt Knob Shelter, mile 723.6)
Tomorrow we reach the 1/3 milestone, expect we won't know it, it'll just be an estimate based on time. I just spent over $100 on new boots so I'm committed to another boot lifetime. The ones I got at Neels Gap (Day 4 of hike?) wore out. The uppers were losing their stitching. They smelled like leaf mold, swamp muck, sweaty socks, and the fabric softener sheets I'd been putting under the insoles in the hopes of diminishing the funk. I think they just added an ingredient.
Evening: I'm stronger! A rafter in the shelter is just the right height for a chin-up and I tried to see if I could do one. I did FOUR!! Prior to the hike I couldn't do even one. Of course, I'm lifting at least 16 pounds less than the last time I tried.
Young Scott and I are sitting outside the Post Office in Troutsville, VA, leaning against our packs, enjoying the shade, waiting for the P.O. to re-open after the government mandated hour long lunch break. Young Scott has to pick up his food box and I'm mailing some stuff home. Then we're headed back out to the Trail for a couple-hour hike to the nearest shelter (Fullhardt Knob Shelter, mile 723.6)
Tomorrow we reach the 1/3 milestone, expect we won't know it, it'll just be an estimate based on time. I just spent over $100 on new boots so I'm committed to another boot lifetime. The ones I got at Neels Gap (Day 4 of hike?) wore out. The uppers were losing their stitching. They smelled like leaf mold, swamp muck, sweaty socks, and the fabric softener sheets I'd been putting under the insoles in the hopes of diminishing the funk. I think they just added an ingredient.
Evening: I'm stronger! A rafter in the shelter is just the right height for a chin-up and I tried to see if I could do one. I did FOUR!! Prior to the hike I couldn't do even one. Of course, I'm lifting at least 16 pounds less than the last time I tried.
Saturday, June 20, 2009
RAIN, RAIN!
5/25
RAIN, RAIN!
After retiring at 7 last night, I slept till 8 am. Still tired, told the others i might take a zero day, took a nap, felt better, and started off at noon. Four miles uphill to Chestnut Knob shelter and I was whipped again. I sat in the shelter for close to an hour deciding whether to stay or go on. Finally decided to go, there was a campsite after 7 miles and all downhill. I took off feeling suddenly much better and practically ran the first few miles. Then the rain started. It POURED. My rain jacket was useless. When I came to the turnoff for the campsite, it was raining so hard I couldn't make myself hike the half-mile to the site in the rain, set up my tent in the rain getting it all wet, when there was a shelter just 3 miles on. So I pushed through the rain and the oncoming darkness (I'd had that late start and then a long stop at the first shelter). I booked. It was getting darker and my headlamp was somewhere inside my pack. I felt around for it unsuccessfully. Note to self: put headlamp in accessible place even if you don't expect to be night-hiking, since you never know.
so I hurried on and on through the rain and the darkness. I've never been rained on so hard in my life. The deluge seemed Biblical in ferocity. But no wind and it wasn't cold, so I was still OK. Water was running down the Trail 3 inches deep. It reflected the little light still coming through the heavy forest, so I could actually see the Trail, or at least the river it had become. I kept telling myself, if I can do the Ironman, I can do this. If I finished that marathon at IMFL, I can do this...I'm not cold like I was then. If the athletes at IMCDA got through their Ironman that riny day, I can do this. If it doesn't get any darker, I can do this. Finally I saw a sign, and it pointed to the shelter, and I was there, and there was still room inside. Thank goodness! I put down my sleeping bag, said "Guys, I gotta get my wet clothes off, if you're looking for a thrill this probably ain't it", stripped and climbed into my bag.
So...woke up feeling awful, went back to bed, considered a zero, reluctantly started a "short" day at noon, got a second wind, perked up, and ran through the rain for 3 hours for a total of a very wet, strenuous 14 miles. A roof over my head and a space for my sleeping bag on the dirty wood floor of a 3-sided shelter full of men, mice and spiders was pure luxury.
RAIN, RAIN!
After retiring at 7 last night, I slept till 8 am. Still tired, told the others i might take a zero day, took a nap, felt better, and started off at noon. Four miles uphill to Chestnut Knob shelter and I was whipped again. I sat in the shelter for close to an hour deciding whether to stay or go on. Finally decided to go, there was a campsite after 7 miles and all downhill. I took off feeling suddenly much better and practically ran the first few miles. Then the rain started. It POURED. My rain jacket was useless. When I came to the turnoff for the campsite, it was raining so hard I couldn't make myself hike the half-mile to the site in the rain, set up my tent in the rain getting it all wet, when there was a shelter just 3 miles on. So I pushed through the rain and the oncoming darkness (I'd had that late start and then a long stop at the first shelter). I booked. It was getting darker and my headlamp was somewhere inside my pack. I felt around for it unsuccessfully. Note to self: put headlamp in accessible place even if you don't expect to be night-hiking, since you never know.
so I hurried on and on through the rain and the darkness. I've never been rained on so hard in my life. The deluge seemed Biblical in ferocity. But no wind and it wasn't cold, so I was still OK. Water was running down the Trail 3 inches deep. It reflected the little light still coming through the heavy forest, so I could actually see the Trail, or at least the river it had become. I kept telling myself, if I can do the Ironman, I can do this. If I finished that marathon at IMFL, I can do this...I'm not cold like I was then. If the athletes at IMCDA got through their Ironman that riny day, I can do this. If it doesn't get any darker, I can do this. Finally I saw a sign, and it pointed to the shelter, and I was there, and there was still room inside. Thank goodness! I put down my sleeping bag, said "Guys, I gotta get my wet clothes off, if you're looking for a thrill this probably ain't it", stripped and climbed into my bag.
So...woke up feeling awful, went back to bed, considered a zero, reluctantly started a "short" day at noon, got a second wind, perked up, and ran through the rain for 3 hours for a total of a very wet, strenuous 14 miles. A roof over my head and a space for my sleeping bag on the dirty wood floor of a 3-sided shelter full of men, mice and spiders was pure luxury.
DITTO
5/24
Beautiful creekside campsite. Looked like I was going to be the only one but others showed up, decided I had a good thing going, and pitched their tents, too.
Lucky Star and Pyrofly, George (a girl) and Logan and their dog Corbin, others I don't know and/or didn't see - I was whipped, that "so tired I hurt" feeling, went to bed at 7.
Beautiful creekside campsite. Looked like I was going to be the only one but others showed up, decided I had a good thing going, and pitched their tents, too.
Lucky Star and Pyrofly, George (a girl) and Logan and their dog Corbin, others I don't know and/or didn't see - I was whipped, that "so tired I hurt" feeling, went to bed at 7.
RESUPPLY DAY
5/23
The plan is to hike the 3.5 miles to Rural Retreat, a one-horse crossroad, picj up my mail drop at The Barn Restaurant, buy lunch there as thanks, get a ride to Atkins or Sugar Grove to get groceries supplies that aren't in my box, get a ride back to the Trail, and hike 7 more miles to the nearest good campsite. 10+ miles plus shopping. Gotta get myself together and move on out.
ANOTHER GORGEOUS CAMPSITE
Under a rhodendron thicket, 15 feet from the creek. I've pulled my rainfly back so I'm mostly in just the bug net of my inner tent. If rain starts, I can easily hop out, pull it up, and clip it in place.
Whippoorwills are chirping all around. When one stops, another starts. all alongside the bubbling brook.
A dozen tents are just up the bank, so I'm not really alone as I sleep alone in my creekside hideaway.
The plan is to hike the 3.5 miles to Rural Retreat, a one-horse crossroad, picj up my mail drop at The Barn Restaurant, buy lunch there as thanks, get a ride to Atkins or Sugar Grove to get groceries supplies that aren't in my box, get a ride back to the Trail, and hike 7 more miles to the nearest good campsite. 10+ miles plus shopping. Gotta get myself together and move on out.
ANOTHER GORGEOUS CAMPSITE
Under a rhodendron thicket, 15 feet from the creek. I've pulled my rainfly back so I'm mostly in just the bug net of my inner tent. If rain starts, I can easily hop out, pull it up, and clip it in place.
Whippoorwills are chirping all around. When one stops, another starts. all alongside the bubbling brook.
A dozen tents are just up the bank, so I'm not really alone as I sleep alone in my creekside hideaway.
TRIMPI SHELTER TO SHATFIELD SHELTER
From Ellie's journal, May 26. Apparently I typed these and somehow managed to only post half of them, I have no idea how. So....sorry for the delay. =(
miles today: 17.7
Total so far: 533.8
Miles to go: 1644.5
Marathons done: 20.4
Days on trail: 53
Average miles per day 10.06
Days left until Oct 1: 126
Average miles/day needed to make Katahdin by Oct 1: 13
So I need to average 13 miles a day from here on. I can do that - balance a 10-miler with a 16-miler, minimize "zero" days. Suppose I take a zero once a week. That means 18 days off, leaving 180 days. That ups the ante to 15.2 miles per day.
Well....lately I've been considering 14-16 and "average" day. I just can't slip up much.
Mt. Katahdin doesn't officially close for the winter until October 15th, but if there's a lot of early snow they shut it down sooner. That's why I'm aiming for October 1st.
Seems a long time away but I'm cutting it close without much room for error.
miles today: 17.7
Total so far: 533.8
Miles to go: 1644.5
Marathons done: 20.4
Days on trail: 53
Average miles per day 10.06
Days left until Oct 1: 126
Average miles/day needed to make Katahdin by Oct 1: 13
So I need to average 13 miles a day from here on. I can do that - balance a 10-miler with a 16-miler, minimize "zero" days. Suppose I take a zero once a week. That means 18 days off, leaving 180 days. That ups the ante to 15.2 miles per day.
Well....lately I've been considering 14-16 and "average" day. I just can't slip up much.
Mt. Katahdin doesn't officially close for the winter until October 15th, but if there's a lot of early snow they shut it down sooner. That's why I'm aiming for October 1st.
Seems a long time away but I'm cutting it close without much room for error.
Tuesday, June 16, 2009
Ellie update
She stopped by Glasgow Virginia on the 15th for a re-supply and on the trail again. She passed the 1/3 rd mark and the 800 mile mark this week. Hopefully she'll mail some journal entries when she stops by the post office in Waynesboro.
Sunday, June 07, 2009
10-MILE REST DAY
From Ellie's Journal 5/21
Hurricane Mt. Shelter to Trimpi Shelter
10.2 Miles
It was about 3.5 miles to the crossing of VA rte 16, where a thru-hiker named Gary was taking a couple of zero days doing nothing but shuttling hikers from the Trail crossing to Jerry's Restaurant and Store and back. Score! Off to Jerry's for a cheeseburger and real coffee (not instant!) Delicious. They had a free computer for hikers and I got to shoot off a quick e-mail to Steve. Patience was there! He was on the computer hassling disgustedly with his insurance company so he could see a doctor.
After another quick e-mail to the Women Hikers List, I got a ride back to the trail with Gary and set out for another 7+ miles. Strolled into camp a little after 2, with a long, lazy afternoon ahead, during which I set up camp, took a bath, washed and hung out all my clothes and bandanas, and caught up on my journal, and still felt like it was an easy, lazy rest day.
Hurricane Mt. Shelter to Trimpi Shelter
10.2 Miles
It was about 3.5 miles to the crossing of VA rte 16, where a thru-hiker named Gary was taking a couple of zero days doing nothing but shuttling hikers from the Trail crossing to Jerry's Restaurant and Store and back. Score! Off to Jerry's for a cheeseburger and real coffee (not instant!) Delicious. They had a free computer for hikers and I got to shoot off a quick e-mail to Steve. Patience was there! He was on the computer hassling disgustedly with his insurance company so he could see a doctor.
After another quick e-mail to the Women Hikers List, I got a ride back to the trail with Gary and set out for another 7+ miles. Strolled into camp a little after 2, with a long, lazy afternoon ahead, during which I set up camp, took a bath, washed and hung out all my clothes and bandanas, and caught up on my journal, and still felt like it was an easy, lazy rest day.
THINGS HAVE CHANGED AGAIN
From Ellie's Journal 5/10
OK. Gaia and Mossy Brown were hiking together, Gaia's partner having gone home and Mossy Brown's partner taking down time for injury, and MB is getting off the trail til her partner is better, which leave Gaia (I'm just a tagalong) So GAia asked if she could hike with me to Damascus, VA, so she won't be hiking alone. So now Gaia and I are together.
Gaia had a maildrop box at the Mountain Harbour Hostel near Roan Mt., VA. I hadn't planned to go there but thought I'd check it out.
Wow. They charged $8 for a tent site but what a beautiful site. Grassy, wooded, a creek with rippling rapids 15 feet away to listen to all night. I had help setting up my tent: 7-year-old Sandra, the granddaughter of the owners. She chattered and pounded in the tent stakes. Then of course she wanted to get in, so of course I let her. She picked up my dowel-rod hiking poles and asked "Wow, are these your walking stick? You could use these for weapons." Smart kid. My thoughts exactly. Then later she took me across the creek to a beautiful green glade where she plays. What a delightful little person.
Also tenting were Bird and Limbo, an engaged couple, with their husky Nikka, whose Trail name is Mama Bear. All three of them are real nice. Arriba (Sally) and E.O. (Eternal Optimist) were in the hostel with Gaia, along with Heidi, a section hiker who's starting tomorrow.
In the yard are horses, goats, and cats. And the beautiful rushing rustling creek.
OK. Gaia and Mossy Brown were hiking together, Gaia's partner having gone home and Mossy Brown's partner taking down time for injury, and MB is getting off the trail til her partner is better, which leave Gaia (I'm just a tagalong) So GAia asked if she could hike with me to Damascus, VA, so she won't be hiking alone. So now Gaia and I are together.
Gaia had a maildrop box at the Mountain Harbour Hostel near Roan Mt., VA. I hadn't planned to go there but thought I'd check it out.
Wow. They charged $8 for a tent site but what a beautiful site. Grassy, wooded, a creek with rippling rapids 15 feet away to listen to all night. I had help setting up my tent: 7-year-old Sandra, the granddaughter of the owners. She chattered and pounded in the tent stakes. Then of course she wanted to get in, so of course I let her. She picked up my dowel-rod hiking poles and asked "Wow, are these your walking stick? You could use these for weapons." Smart kid. My thoughts exactly. Then later she took me across the creek to a beautiful green glade where she plays. What a delightful little person.
Also tenting were Bird and Limbo, an engaged couple, with their husky Nikka, whose Trail name is Mama Bear. All three of them are real nice. Arriba (Sally) and E.O. (Eternal Optimist) were in the hostel with Gaia, along with Heidi, a section hiker who's starting tomorrow.
In the yard are horses, goats, and cats. And the beautiful rushing rustling creek.
BARNYARD CHOMP
From Ellie's Journal 5/9
So Gaia and Mossy Brown and I moved on. It was cool and cloudy and nice for hiking. It was also a very hard climb up Roan Mountain, rocky, a little hand-over-hand invloved. We took pictures of each other at the top.
The guidebook promised water and toilets at Carver Gap, but there was no water and the toilets, well, I'd rather us the woods. Then it started sprinkling, then POURING. Aha, there's the water! so we clombed up the grassy bald in the wind and side-driven rain. My hands were freezing and I put on my fleece mittens covered with the dog-poop bags. I've been using the same ones since Springer. I call them my "lucky dog-poop bags". when I took my hand off my hiking pole for a second, the wind caught one of them and blew it away. No, my lucky dog-poop bag!! I went chasing after it, walking fast but not daring to run because of my tendons. Finally a bramble bush caught and held it for me. Mossy Brown and Gaia were cracking up. Gaia video'd it.
All day I complained that I wanted Kentucky Fried Chicken. So when we came to the turnoff for the Overmountain Shelter and saw a sign pointing to a "Barnyard Chomp" Going on there, I got my hopes up. It turned out to be a reunion of former thru-hikers, cooking for the current crop of hopefuls. No KFC, but delicious vegetarian chili, grilled cheese sandwiches, chips, cookies, and BEER!! What a treat! There was a challenge on for our tribe (I guess there were 30-40 people altogether, including "old" and "new" hikers) to exceed the number of beers, 128 I think, consumed last year prior to 9 pm. I contributed, er, consumed, 2. I can't drink as much as I did in civilization. I don't like the way it makes me feel. Anywhoo, I think the final count was 169. I went to bed it the barn before they reached that record. the shelter was a barn, with a loft, that could probably sleep 40 people and quite possibly did.
So Gaia and Mossy Brown and I moved on. It was cool and cloudy and nice for hiking. It was also a very hard climb up Roan Mountain, rocky, a little hand-over-hand invloved. We took pictures of each other at the top.
The guidebook promised water and toilets at Carver Gap, but there was no water and the toilets, well, I'd rather us the woods. Then it started sprinkling, then POURING. Aha, there's the water! so we clombed up the grassy bald in the wind and side-driven rain. My hands were freezing and I put on my fleece mittens covered with the dog-poop bags. I've been using the same ones since Springer. I call them my "lucky dog-poop bags". when I took my hand off my hiking pole for a second, the wind caught one of them and blew it away. No, my lucky dog-poop bag!! I went chasing after it, walking fast but not daring to run because of my tendons. Finally a bramble bush caught and held it for me. Mossy Brown and Gaia were cracking up. Gaia video'd it.
All day I complained that I wanted Kentucky Fried Chicken. So when we came to the turnoff for the Overmountain Shelter and saw a sign pointing to a "Barnyard Chomp" Going on there, I got my hopes up. It turned out to be a reunion of former thru-hikers, cooking for the current crop of hopefuls. No KFC, but delicious vegetarian chili, grilled cheese sandwiches, chips, cookies, and BEER!! What a treat! There was a challenge on for our tribe (I guess there were 30-40 people altogether, including "old" and "new" hikers) to exceed the number of beers, 128 I think, consumed last year prior to 9 pm. I contributed, er, consumed, 2. I can't drink as much as I did in civilization. I don't like the way it makes me feel. Anywhoo, I think the final count was 169. I went to bed it the barn before they reached that record. the shelter was a barn, with a loft, that could probably sleep 40 people and quite possibly did.
From Ellie's Journal 5/8
MORNING
I'm nearly as tired as when i went to bed. 15 miles ahead today. everyone's stopping at at Roan Mt. Shelter - at 6255 ft, the highest shelter on the AT.
EVENING Well, we didn't make it to Roan Mountain. It rained all morning, with thunder, though no actual storms. Until the rain and thunder stopped, that is. Then a true windstorm blew in. It was foggy and drizzling (we were in the clouds) with straight-line winds that I'd estimate at 40-45 mph steady with higher gusts. It was horrendous and we were struggling against it going up the steep climbs. The temperature suddenly dropped what must have been 15 degrees and my hands and face were freezing. I was watching and listening for falling trees, and I was short of breath from climbing, and all of a sudden I got one of those damn panic attacks. I rested in the hollow of a dead tree till I was breathing more easily, then started again, telling myself "This is not a heart attack. I've been to the hospital with this and it was a panic attack. I am not dying." Up ahead was a huge boulder with an overhang where several of us hunkered down out of the wind. I dug in my pack and fished out a Xanax tablet. It helped. Withing 15 minutes the panic was gone and I spent the rest of the day in slo-mo.
Gaia, Mossy Brown, and I decided to stop for the day at Clyde Smith shelter, for a nine-mile day. The wind has stopped and it's clearing up, actually turning really nice; but storms are expected to start again later and we'd just as soon not get caught out in it again.
I'm worried about my knee that I banged and scraped yesterday in the fall resulting from the twisted ankle. The ankle was my immediate concern and it didn't worry me that my knee was bleeding. I washed it off, then laced my boot tighter around my twisted ankle and continued on. now my ankle is fine but my knee is swollen, red and hot. damn. A couple of section-hikers, young girls who work in a health food store, gave me some Emergen-C, and i heated water and put hot bandages on it, as well as arnica gel (anti-inflammatory). I don't like the looks of it and neither do Gaia and Mossy Brown, both nurses.
today is sally's 63rd burthday. I taped birthday candles into the sign-in register this morning at Cherry Gap, with a note, gambling that she'll stay there tonight or at least stop in for lunch. I miss her but our goals and hiking styles have turned out to be too different for us to stay together.
MORNING
I'm nearly as tired as when i went to bed. 15 miles ahead today. everyone's stopping at at Roan Mt. Shelter - at 6255 ft, the highest shelter on the AT.
EVENING Well, we didn't make it to Roan Mountain. It rained all morning, with thunder, though no actual storms. Until the rain and thunder stopped, that is. Then a true windstorm blew in. It was foggy and drizzling (we were in the clouds) with straight-line winds that I'd estimate at 40-45 mph steady with higher gusts. It was horrendous and we were struggling against it going up the steep climbs. The temperature suddenly dropped what must have been 15 degrees and my hands and face were freezing. I was watching and listening for falling trees, and I was short of breath from climbing, and all of a sudden I got one of those damn panic attacks. I rested in the hollow of a dead tree till I was breathing more easily, then started again, telling myself "This is not a heart attack. I've been to the hospital with this and it was a panic attack. I am not dying." Up ahead was a huge boulder with an overhang where several of us hunkered down out of the wind. I dug in my pack and fished out a Xanax tablet. It helped. Withing 15 minutes the panic was gone and I spent the rest of the day in slo-mo.
Gaia, Mossy Brown, and I decided to stop for the day at Clyde Smith shelter, for a nine-mile day. The wind has stopped and it's clearing up, actually turning really nice; but storms are expected to start again later and we'd just as soon not get caught out in it again.
I'm worried about my knee that I banged and scraped yesterday in the fall resulting from the twisted ankle. The ankle was my immediate concern and it didn't worry me that my knee was bleeding. I washed it off, then laced my boot tighter around my twisted ankle and continued on. now my ankle is fine but my knee is swollen, red and hot. damn. A couple of section-hikers, young girls who work in a health food store, gave me some Emergen-C, and i heated water and put hot bandages on it, as well as arnica gel (anti-inflammatory). I don't like the looks of it and neither do Gaia and Mossy Brown, both nurses.
today is sally's 63rd burthday. I taped birthday candles into the sign-in register this morning at Cherry Gap, with a note, gambling that she'll stay there tonight or at least stop in for lunch. I miss her but our goals and hiking styles have turned out to be too different for us to stay together.
BACK AT IT!
From Ellie's Journal 5/7
17 miles today from Uncle Johnny's to Cherry Gap shelter. NO RAIN!! Near the Nolichucky River the Trail was a tributary draining into the river. A dicey creek crossing: 8 inches deep, fast current, slippery stepping stones submerged by the creek rise; wet feet and thrills but no spills. I made it!!
Later on dry path I rolled an ankle, fell, and scraped my knee on a rock. Just lay there for a minute shouting "No sprains! No sprains!" Things got better when, 5 minutes from the shelter, I found ramps for dinne. Mixed with potatoes au gratin and split peas...Yum!
17 miles today from Uncle Johnny's to Cherry Gap shelter. NO RAIN!! Near the Nolichucky River the Trail was a tributary draining into the river. A dicey creek crossing: 8 inches deep, fast current, slippery stepping stones submerged by the creek rise; wet feet and thrills but no spills. I made it!!
Later on dry path I rolled an ankle, fell, and scraped my knee on a rock. Just lay there for a minute shouting "No sprains! No sprains!" Things got better when, 5 minutes from the shelter, I found ramps for dinne. Mixed with potatoes au gratin and split peas...Yum!
ZERO DAY
(from Ellie's Journal 5/6)
Uncle Johnny's Hostel is a very cool place. I could get used to staying here. In just one day I've started to feel as though the Trail is very far away. On the other hand, this morning I fired up my JetBoil to make coffee, later realizing I'd done it right besde the microwave. Oh, well...the JetBoil is faster anyway.
There are so many dogs here. LaMar is a samll, shaggy, black and white mutt who lives here. Rio is an affable pit bull mix. Mama Bear is a husky. Charlie and Holly are matching Great Pyranees. Holly was recently rescued from an abusive, negligent home and is now learning to be a real dog. Their owner ties them together on a 2-foot leash so Holly has to follow Charlie's lead. Cool!
Uncle Johnny's Hostel is a very cool place. I could get used to staying here. In just one day I've started to feel as though the Trail is very far away. On the other hand, this morning I fired up my JetBoil to make coffee, later realizing I'd done it right besde the microwave. Oh, well...the JetBoil is faster anyway.
There are so many dogs here. LaMar is a samll, shaggy, black and white mutt who lives here. Rio is an affable pit bull mix. Mama Bear is a husky. Charlie and Holly are matching Great Pyranees. Holly was recently rescued from an abusive, negligent home and is now learning to be a real dog. Their owner ties them together on a 2-foot leash so Holly has to follow Charlie's lead. Cool!
DALEVILLE, VA
Yesterday I passed 700 miles. Closing in on 1/3 (727 miles.)
My boots are worn out.
I look thin. Not nicely slim.... thin.
I've hiked the past week with Young Scott, an 18-yr-old man who has the wisdom of one much older. He's a Christian and we talk some about theology and much about other things. We're following his planned itinerary, hiking generally 16-18 miles a day. I hope I can keep on keeping up with him. He could go faster if I weren't with him but I am able to do his planned miles.... we just get to the shelter an hour or so later than he might have alone.
Yesterday I stood atop McAfee Knob, one of the most-photographed spots on the Trail. Do a Google Image search and you'll see it!
My boots are worn out.
I look thin. Not nicely slim.... thin.
I've hiked the past week with Young Scott, an 18-yr-old man who has the wisdom of one much older. He's a Christian and we talk some about theology and much about other things. We're following his planned itinerary, hiking generally 16-18 miles a day. I hope I can keep on keeping up with him. He could go faster if I weren't with him but I am able to do his planned miles.... we just get to the shelter an hour or so later than he might have alone.
Yesterday I stood atop McAfee Knob, one of the most-photographed spots on the Trail. Do a Google Image search and you'll see it!

Gotta go, folks waiting for computer (motel lobby.)
Saturday, June 06, 2009
Ellie update
Ellie called from Catawba, VA yesterday and everything's fine.
She hiked 73 miles in the last three days!
695 miles so far.
Avery has a bunch of journal entries she will be posting soon.
She hiked 73 miles in the last three days!
695 miles so far.
Avery has a bunch of journal entries she will be posting soon.
Sunday, May 31, 2009
GUESS WHO I MET ON THE AT?
I'm guessing some of my readers know who David Horton is :-)

In case you don't, he's a well-known ultra-marathon runner who's written books about ultra-running.
This was on the AT section in Grayson Highlands National Park, VA.
He signed my hiking pole, too: David Horton "The Runner" 5/20
Very cool!!

In case you don't, he's a well-known ultra-marathon runner who's written books about ultra-running.
This was on the AT section in Grayson Highlands National Park, VA.
He signed my hiking pole, too: David Horton "The Runner" 5/20
Very cool!!
Tuesday, May 26, 2009
Ellie Update
I talked to her today. She spent a long night in the pouring rain, luckely in a shelter. They're hiking 15-20 miles a day and doin fine. I've changed the map and will add some more pics soon.
Steve


Steve

A view from the top.

Ellie & Sally
Ellie

Wednesday, May 20, 2009
FINALLY SOME SUN
May 5
But only some. It cleared up for a while in the morning for a beautiful 6 mile hike into Erwin, TN. I'm staying at Uncle Johnny's Hostel drying out. Uncle Johnny's buddy, CD gave me a penny - he said it's penny #97. of the 500+ hikers to use the hostel this year, he has given these to the hikers he believes are going to make it to Maine. He says he watches attitudes and I've "got it".
More hiking tomorrow. AND more rain. There are flood watches for the area. Oh, goody.
But only some. It cleared up for a while in the morning for a beautiful 6 mile hike into Erwin, TN. I'm staying at Uncle Johnny's Hostel drying out. Uncle Johnny's buddy, CD gave me a penny - he said it's penny #97. of the 500+ hikers to use the hostel this year, he has given these to the hikers he believes are going to make it to Maine. He says he watches attitudes and I've "got it".
More hiking tomorrow. AND more rain. There are flood watches for the area. Oh, goody.
THEN SINGS MY SOUL
May 4
It rained for a while in the morning and then let up. I hiked slowly, savoring the smells, incredibly green greens, and flowers, flowers, flowers. I came to the Trail aware of 3 colors of trilliums: red, white, and painted. Well, I have seen every color but blue and orange. Yellow, pink, mauve, variegated, speckled, freckled. Awesome, thrilling. But then the rain started again, hard. BUT...Bird and I found ramps, gathered some, and sauteed them in olive oil for dinner. Yum!!
It rained for a while in the morning and then let up. I hiked slowly, savoring the smells, incredibly green greens, and flowers, flowers, flowers. I came to the Trail aware of 3 colors of trilliums: red, white, and painted. Well, I have seen every color but blue and orange. Yellow, pink, mauve, variegated, speckled, freckled. Awesome, thrilling. But then the rain started again, hard. BUT...Bird and I found ramps, gathered some, and sauteed them in olive oil for dinner. Yum!!
STILL MORE RAIN
May 3
Sheesh. I mean, it's POURING. My group of hiking pals set up at a campsite rather than struggle on to a shelter that would probably be full. I got seriously cold helping to build a makeshift shelter. Hands white, heavy shivering. Had to get out of wet clothes and into sleeping bag with a hot water bottle.
The "shelter" was cool - sort of a teepee of sticks covered with leafy branches. Just enough to crouch under while cooking.
Had a great time hiking/talking with Bird, who's 24 - like being with a daughter or young friend. But not really like hiking with a daughter...now THAT would be really great.
Sheesh. I mean, it's POURING. My group of hiking pals set up at a campsite rather than struggle on to a shelter that would probably be full. I got seriously cold helping to build a makeshift shelter. Hands white, heavy shivering. Had to get out of wet clothes and into sleeping bag with a hot water bottle.
The "shelter" was cool - sort of a teepee of sticks covered with leafy branches. Just enough to crouch under while cooking.
Had a great time hiking/talking with Bird, who's 24 - like being with a daughter or young friend. But not really like hiking with a daughter...now THAT would be really great.
RAIN AND MORE RAIN
May 2
But better than yesterday's burning sun, post-rain humidity, and endless climb. Today a lot of the walking was along an old dirt road. But at one point, in cold rain, wind, and fog, I chose a designated Bad Weather Route over the Exposed Ridgetop Trail. I saw smiling, tail-wagging tadpoles in two little puddle ponds. So cute!
Sleeping inside Flint Mountain Shelter tonight, the ground is wet, as is my tent. Shelter is full, 4 girls and 4 guys, more tenting outside.
Miles down: 304.1
Miles to go: 1874.2
But better than yesterday's burning sun, post-rain humidity, and endless climb. Today a lot of the walking was along an old dirt road. But at one point, in cold rain, wind, and fog, I chose a designated Bad Weather Route over the Exposed Ridgetop Trail. I saw smiling, tail-wagging tadpoles in two little puddle ponds. So cute!
Sleeping inside Flint Mountain Shelter tonight, the ground is wet, as is my tent. Shelter is full, 4 girls and 4 guys, more tenting outside.
Miles down: 304.1
Miles to go: 1874.2
Tuesday, May 19, 2009
Ellie update
(Steve) Since May 1st she has hiked another 228 miles and is doing fine (499 miles so far). I'm sure she has sent Avery some more of her journal which she will post. She hiked into Virginia last week and spent the weekend in Damascus at an AT hikers get-together. Ellie is mailing me a camera card and when she does I will post some pictures. I talk to her daily, but with infrequent stops, and the mail system, her blog updates will be about 2 weeks behind.
Wednesday, May 13, 2009
ONE MONTH DONE!
May 1
291.4 miles - 1886.9 to go.
Long, long, long, long climb today. Nearly 1400 ft elevation over 5 miles. Started out rainy but then sunny and sweaty-hot. When a hike-mate comes staggering and tripping into camp, flushed and glassy-eyed, mumbling "Where's water?" it's not a good sign. We all gave him some and he started looking better. I was whipped myself, felt exhausted, shaky and feverish, drank a lot of water and hit the sack at 8:00.
Little Laurel Shelter, water source a nearly dry spring.
291.4 miles - 1886.9 to go.
Long, long, long, long climb today. Nearly 1400 ft elevation over 5 miles. Started out rainy but then sunny and sweaty-hot. When a hike-mate comes staggering and tripping into camp, flushed and glassy-eyed, mumbling "Where's water?" it's not a good sign. We all gave him some and he started looking better. I was whipped myself, felt exhausted, shaky and feverish, drank a lot of water and hit the sack at 8:00.
Little Laurel Shelter, water source a nearly dry spring.
NIGHT SOUNDS
4/30/09
A campsite, not a shelter, 5 miles out of Hot Springs, NC. lots of my friends tenting here. The water source is a stagnant pond with a big dead turtle floating in it. Boil before using!!
But...a crackling campfire, good friends, spring peepers, barred owls, whipporwills, and a distant train. It doesn't get much better than this.
A campsite, not a shelter, 5 miles out of Hot Springs, NC. lots of my friends tenting here. The water source is a stagnant pond with a big dead turtle floating in it. Boil before using!!
But...a crackling campfire, good friends, spring peepers, barred owls, whipporwills, and a distant train. It doesn't get much better than this.
Monday, May 11, 2009
Update
(Steve) Avery added some of Ellie's journal. I spoke to her today (Monday) and she's fine. They hiked 18 miles today. Another supply pick-up tomorrow and back on the trail.
I added some pictures I received today and added them to the blog.
I added some pictures I received today and added them to the blog.
STEVE'S BIRTHDAY
April 27
And in the early evening I was able to get signal to call him. Otherwise, the day is too long for anything but a list of events.
miles traveled: 12.7
total so far: 240.7
miles to go: 1.937.6
Sally left early, and I was alone. Happy, though. Spring got greener and greener as I descended out of Great Smoky Mtn. Natn'l Park, which is now behind me. Hiked 10 miles to Standing Bear Hostel. Went with the shuttle bus to get beer and ice cream. Got a few supplies to last till Hot Springs, NC (3 days)
Sally stayed at Standing Bear. I'm short on money and hiked out. staying at a small campsite with Matt and Young Scott. My tent is about 3 feet from the brook and I'll hear it all night. a barred owl is hooting, the boys built a wonderful campfire.
And in the early evening I was able to get signal to call him. Otherwise, the day is too long for anything but a list of events.
miles traveled: 12.7
total so far: 240.7
miles to go: 1.937.6
Sally left early, and I was alone. Happy, though. Spring got greener and greener as I descended out of Great Smoky Mtn. Natn'l Park, which is now behind me. Hiked 10 miles to Standing Bear Hostel. Went with the shuttle bus to get beer and ice cream. Got a few supplies to last till Hot Springs, NC (3 days)
Sally stayed at Standing Bear. I'm short on money and hiked out. staying at a small campsite with Matt and Young Scott. My tent is about 3 feet from the brook and I'll hear it all night. a barred owl is hooting, the boys built a wonderful campfire.
COSBY KNOB SHELTER

Cosby Knob shelter & My spot inside.
April 26
Boy, is this beautiful. Green, green. White trillium blooming on the hill below; wild blackberry canes leafing out.
Hiking-wise, the day was sort of routine, if that's possible. Some up, some down, long but not extreme. Mountains, trees, flowers.
A spruce or fir tree had seeded itself in a hole in an oak tree and had grown to about 3 feet high.
In the Great Smoky Mountains National Park, tent camping is not permitted unless the shel
ter is full, and then you must tent within the shelter-yard perimeter. This means your daily mileage is determined by how many shelters you're willing to pass before stopping. They're typically 7-12 miles apart, so hikers have to keep moving right along. This policy is partyl to minimize bear activity and offer protection to hikers, and partly to minimize environmental impact, restricting heavy use to specified areas.
Day/overnight hikers and section hikers must have reservations to use the shelters. three spots are reserved for the thru-hikers. Whether more than three thru-hikers can sleep in the shelter depends on how many campers with reservations there are. If the shelter is full and a "transient" hiker with a reservation shows up, a thru-hiker has to move out and set up a tent, no matter what the hour or weather.
Hasn't happened to me or any of my new friends yet, though.
Boy, is this beautiful. Green, green. White trillium blooming on the hill below; wild blackberry canes leafing out.
Hiking-wise, the day was sort of routine, if that's possible. Some up, some down, long but not extreme. Mountains, trees, flowers.
A spruce or fir tree had seeded itself in a hole in an oak tree and had grown to about 3 feet high.
In the Great Smoky Mountains National Park, tent camping is not permitted unless the shel
ter is full, and then you must tent within the shelter-yard perimeter. This means your daily mileage is determined by how many shelters you're willing to pass before stopping. They're typically 7-12 miles apart, so hikers have to keep moving right along. This policy is partyl to minimize bear activity and offer protection to hikers, and partly to minimize environmental impact, restricting heavy use to specified areas.Day/overnight hikers and section hikers must have reservations to use the shelters. three spots are reserved for the thru-hikers. Whether more than three thru-hikers can sleep in the shelter depends on how many campers with reservations there are. If the shelter is full and a "transient" hiker with a reservation shows up, a thru-hiker has to move out and set up a tent, no matter what the hour or weather.
Hasn't happened to me or any of my new friends yet, though.
THIS IS THE DAY THE LORD HAS MADE
April 25
And how beautiful it has been. Warm, sunny. filled with birdsong and wildflowers. Gorgeous Smoky Mountain views for miles and miles. It looks like the ocean- but the waves are mountains. all around, an endless sea of mountains.
I met an 86 year old man, "Cimarron" hiking out after injuring his knee. He was attempting a thru-hike and got about 215 miles.
Hiked partly with friends and partly alone. Both were good. Calamity Kate liked my idea for my future photography business: Name it "My Father's World" and the categories "Rocks and Trees" "Skies and Seas" "The Morning Light" "The Lily White", all phrases from the hymn.
"Bird" a wildlife management grad, showed me how to distinguish firs from spruces from hemlocks.
And when I was alone, I gazed at the trees, alive and dead, and the flowers and rocks and the path and said "Lord, this is magnificent. It's no wonder you wanted me to see this.
Hokey as it sounds, I sang "The Hills Are Alive With The Sound of Music". And I meant every word.
Mild thunderstorms rolled in just after I reached the shelter: Peck's Corner Shelter. Sally AKA "Arriba" is here, and Calamity Kate and her partner Jen AKA "Skipper" , N-Da-Wind, Bird, Young Scott, Sailor J, Scarecrow, Steve (a section hiker), Kismet, others whose names I don't know. The shelter is full. Three tents outside, and Scarecrow's hammock. Somebody started it with "Goodnight, Yard Sale..." I answered "Goodnight, Jim-Bob" and others joined in, "Goodnight, John-boy, goodnight Mary Ellen," And then we all started humming The waltons' theme music. Life is good.
miles done: 215.1
miles to go: 1,963.2
marathons done: 8.1
marathons to go: 75.2
And how beautiful it has been. Warm, sunny. filled with birdsong and wildflowers. Gorgeous Smoky Mountain views for miles and miles. It looks like the ocean- but the waves are mountains. all around, an endless sea of mountains.
I met an 86 year old man, "Cimarron" hiking out after injuring his knee. He was attempting a thru-hike and got about 215 miles.
Hiked partly with friends and partly alone. Both were good. Calamity Kate liked my idea for my future photography business: Name it "My Father's World" and the categories "Rocks and Trees" "Skies and Seas" "The Morning Light" "The Lily White", all phrases from the hymn.
"Bird" a wildlife management grad, showed me how to distinguish firs from spruces from hemlocks.
And when I was alone, I gazed at the trees, alive and dead, and the flowers and rocks and the path and said "Lord, this is magnificent. It's no wonder you wanted me to see this.
Hokey as it sounds, I sang "The Hills Are Alive With The Sound of Music". And I meant every word.
Mild thunderstorms rolled in just after I reached the shelter: Peck's Corner Shelter. Sally AKA "Arriba" is here, and Calamity Kate and her partner Jen AKA "Skipper" , N-Da-Wind, Bird, Young Scott, Sailor J, Scarecrow, Steve (a section hiker), Kismet, others whose names I don't know. The shelter is full. Three tents outside, and Scarecrow's hammock. Somebody started it with "Goodnight, Yard Sale..." I answered "Goodnight, Jim-Bob" and others joined in, "Goodnight, John-boy, goodnight Mary Ellen," And then we all started humming The waltons' theme music. Life is good.
miles done: 215.1
miles to go: 1,963.2
marathons done: 8.1
marathons to go: 75.2
I TALK TOO MUCH
April 22-24
Three people now on the Trail have called to my attention that I talk all the time. I have always known I talk a lot. I just plain think out loud.
I have never been told it's annoying. I've never been told others can't get a word in.
Now I've been told. so I'm learning to keep quiet unless I have something to say. Fifty-seven years old and I never knew this. Looking back I can see clues I should have picked up on but I guess I was talking to fast to notice them.
So now I know. Every thought I have clutters up the space around me like a non-categorized yard sale.
Set a watch before my mouth, O Lord, keep the door of my lips.
Three people now on the Trail have called to my attention that I talk all the time. I have always known I talk a lot. I just plain think out loud.
I have never been told it's annoying. I've never been told others can't get a word in.
Now I've been told. so I'm learning to keep quiet unless I have something to say. Fifty-seven years old and I never knew this. Looking back I can see clues I should have picked up on but I guess I was talking to fast to notice them.
So now I know. Every thought I have clutters up the space around me like a non-categorized yard sale.
Set a watch before my mouth, O Lord, keep the door of my lips.
THE GREAT SMOKY MOUNTAINS
April 21
miles today: 11
miles so far: 175
miles to go: 2003.3
Tomorrow....tomorrow we get a new FIRST digit.
Yesterday Sally and I took a zero day - guess I told you that. I didn't sleep well in the motel. got up around midnight and took a chill pill even though I wasn't anxious. Still woke up a lot. Up for the day around 6:30. so not much sleep and none of it good.
Into the Smoky Mtns. finally! It's so beautiful. cold, though. 20's tonight. There were snow flurries today. I watched snowflakes fall and melt on the trillium and trout lilies.
I am so tired today. It's always hard the day after a resupply....full/heavy food bag. I got some stuff out of the "hiker box" at the motel, too...nice pair of pink Crocs. Anyway, today my pack was back up to 30#. But my own body weight is down SEVEN as of this morning. I ate more today.
I am very tired. I'm going to bed.
miles today: 11
miles so far: 175
miles to go: 2003.3
Tomorrow....tomorrow we get a new FIRST digit.
Yesterday Sally and I took a zero day - guess I told you that. I didn't sleep well in the motel. got up around midnight and took a chill pill even though I wasn't anxious. Still woke up a lot. Up for the day around 6:30. so not much sleep and none of it good.
Into the Smoky Mtns. finally! It's so beautiful. cold, though. 20's tonight. There were snow flurries today. I watched snowflakes fall and melt on the trillium and trout lilies.
I am so tired today. It's always hard the day after a resupply....full/heavy food bag. I got some stuff out of the "hiker box" at the motel, too...nice pair of pink Crocs. Anyway, today my pack was back up to 30#. But my own body weight is down SEVEN as of this morning. I ate more today.
I am very tired. I'm going to bed.

Some day I'll catch up on all the stories. Not tonight.
Sleeping at Mollie's Ridge Shelter. It has an indoor fireplace, and Firebug built a fire. It looks cozy and takes the chill off somewhat.
Wednesday, May 06, 2009
Still plugging along

(Steve) Ellie just left Erwin, TN and is doing great. Sally is two days behind nursing a sore toe. She's hiking with a group of through hikers who meet each night and plan the next days hike, mileage and where they will meet the next evening. They all hike their own pace, but have the same destination. Sounds like a good plan. All Katadin bound.
Friday, May 01, 2009
Sunday, April 26, 2009
(from Ellie's journal, April 20)
Resting at the Hike Inn in Fontana dam, NC. rest, recuperate, refuel, rehydrate, resupply, reorganize. We're groaning that with the new 4-day food supply our packs are up to 30#.
I need to eat more. I have lost 7 pounds in 20 days. Gack, that means carrying more food, more weight in my pack. Well, it's 7# less on my body to lug, so it evens out, I guess.
Resting at the Hike Inn in Fontana dam, NC. rest, recuperate, refuel, rehydrate, resupply, reorganize. We're groaning that with the new 4-day food supply our packs are up to 30#.
I need to eat more. I have lost 7 pounds in 20 days. Gack, that means carrying more food, more weight in my pack. Well, it's 7# less on my body to lug, so it evens out, I guess.
LONGEST DAY!!!
(from Ellie's journal, April 19)
miles traveled: 18.2!!!
total so far: 163.7
stayed at the "Fontana Hilton" - Shelter that sleeps 24, with water fountain, outdoor spigot, trash cans, nearby real toilets (self-flushing, startled me), shower. Zero day tomorrow.
miles traveled: 18.2!!!
total so far: 163.7
stayed at the "Fontana Hilton" - Shelter that sleeps 24, with water fountain, outdoor spigot, trash cans, nearby real toilets (self-flushing, startled me), shower. Zero day tomorrow.
HIKING AGAIN
(From Ellie's journal, April 18)
Yayyy! Sally got to NOC about lunchtime yesterday, all hale and hearty and bubbling over with trail and shelter adventures. when I saw her I sat down and burst into tears. I told her how worried I'd been: to my vision, she'd been missing. She enthused about her hike and I protested about my trauma, neither of us relating. Finally she told me to get over it so I did.
Too late to start hiking so we camped. The same beautiful unofficial campsite, which I'd shared each night with whatever group of people I'd told about it, and occasionally someone who saw our campfires and came on up. It was on such a steep hill that there was a rope to climb up.
Yayyy! Sally got to NOC about lunchtime yesterday, all hale and hearty and bubbling over with trail and shelter adventures. when I saw her I sat down and burst into tears. I told her how worried I'd been: to my vision, she'd been missing. She enthused about her hike and I protested about my trauma, neither of us relating. Finally she told me to get over it so I did.
Too late to start hiking so we camped. The same beautiful unofficial campsite, which I'd shared each night with whatever group of people I'd told about it, and occasionally someone who saw our campfires and came on up. It was on such a steep hill that there was a rope to climb up.

It had been some kind of estate - the whole hilltop was covered with English Ivy, underneath which were remains of a stone house, a mansion really. Big old climbing vines, big enough to swing on, turned out to be roses. climbing roses. I saw the leaves. That old, that huge. Wodden vines an inch in diameter. It must have been beautiful as an estate and I'd love to see those roses in bloom.
today we got underway once more. climbed up, up, up....3000ft elevation change over 8 miles. We were nervous for a while about what looked and smelled like a forest fire, watching the smoke, checking the wind, watching the reactions of birds and animals, who remained unconcerned. Turned out it was a controlled 200 acre burn in the Smokies, someone learned somehow.
So now we're camped after going down, down, down, six tents here, one hammock, 3 girls, 4 guys. Sally and I agree on a meeting point if we get ahead of each other, when one of us reaches that point, she does not proceed until the other has arrived. No more separation anxiety for me. I was ready to call out an App. Trail Comission search party for a missing hiker.
Miles today: 10.5, 6 hours including breaks.
Total miles so far: 163.7
Miles to go: 2032.8
Marathons down 5.5
Marathons to go:77.8
My pack weight at NOC, including 4 days of food and 36oz of water, was 26.5 pounds.
today we got underway once more. climbed up, up, up....3000ft elevation change over 8 miles. We were nervous for a while about what looked and smelled like a forest fire, watching the smoke, checking the wind, watching the reactions of birds and animals, who remained unconcerned. Turned out it was a controlled 200 acre burn in the Smokies, someone learned somehow.
So now we're camped after going down, down, down, six tents here, one hammock, 3 girls, 4 guys. Sally and I agree on a meeting point if we get ahead of each other, when one of us reaches that point, she does not proceed until the other has arrived. No more separation anxiety for me. I was ready to call out an App. Trail Comission search party for a missing hiker.
Miles today: 10.5, 6 hours including breaks.
Total miles so far: 163.7
Miles to go: 2032.8
Marathons down 5.5
Marathons to go:77.8
My pack weight at NOC, including 4 days of food and 36oz of water, was 26.5 pounds.
(From Ellie's journal, April 17)
Day 3 of living at the Nantahala Outdoor Center waiting for Sally. I feel like Novalee Nation living at the Wal-Mart. (Where the Heart Is). "Muscles"-a girl- came in this morning and says Sally's about 6 miles out, as are a bunch of other members of our original "gang" whom I assumed were far ahead. Things are looking up. I'm a veteran at living here...I show all the new-comers where the showers and washing machines are, and the hiker boxes, and the all-purpose common room, and the location of whatever they're looking for in the outfitter store here. I should be paid.
Day 3 of living at the Nantahala Outdoor Center waiting for Sally. I feel like Novalee Nation living at the Wal-Mart. (Where the Heart Is). "Muscles"-a girl- came in this morning and says Sally's about 6 miles out, as are a bunch of other members of our original "gang" whom I assumed were far ahead. Things are looking up. I'm a veteran at living here...I show all the new-comers where the showers and washing machines are, and the hiker boxes, and the all-purpose common room, and the location of whatever they're looking for in the outfitter store here. I should be paid.
WAITING FOR SALLY
From Ellie's journal, April 16)
It turns out that Sally is most likely behind me, not ahead. Found out last night via grapevine that she stayed in Franklin nursing a sore knee. I called our next mail drop place Fontana and she has not picked up her box. So I'm waiting for the outfitter here at NOC to open this morning; I never thought to ask yesterday if she'd picked up THIS drop because I assumed she was a couple days ahead. I'm kicking myself for not knowing by ESP that she was behind me. I'm worried. If she hasn't picked up her box here, I'll wait until she does, and start calling places back in Franklin if hikers coming in today haven't passed her.
"Fidget" (a guy) pulled in later and had been with Sally overnight a couple shelters back. She's on her way. Should get here tomorrow. We (Fidget, N-Da-Wind, Jessie's Girl, Jedi and Matt) found a wonderful unofficial campsite on a flat topped hill overlooking the rushing Nantahala River which sounded wonderful all night. We had a campfire, beer, and a great time. I'm SO relieved...I thought everyone was ahead of me and that I was all alone out here. I guess they all stayed an extra day in Franklin!

Jedi and Jessie's Girl
Baltimore Jack, a Trail legend, and his pal Sergeant Rock showed up yesterday. They had some serious hooch - Jack is packing 25oz of Jim Beam which he ships himself in his mail drops - and gave me some. Then someone gave me a beer. This is like, about noon and I haven't eaten much since I'm not hiking. Whoo. Spin City.
Sergeant Rock signing my hiking pole
I found a rain jacket discarded in a "hiker box" here (take what you want, leave what you don't). I cut the sleeves off to fit my water bottles and made carriers for them (dental floss for thread) to go on my pack straps for easy access. threw the jacket back in the box - maybe someone will want a short sleeved rain jacket.
My new water bottle carriers
It turns out that Sally is most likely behind me, not ahead. Found out last night via grapevine that she stayed in Franklin nursing a sore knee. I called our next mail drop place Fontana and she has not picked up her box. So I'm waiting for the outfitter here at NOC to open this morning; I never thought to ask yesterday if she'd picked up THIS drop because I assumed she was a couple days ahead. I'm kicking myself for not knowing by ESP that she was behind me. I'm worried. If she hasn't picked up her box here, I'll wait until she does, and start calling places back in Franklin if hikers coming in today haven't passed her.
EVENING
"Fidget" (a guy) pulled in later and had been with Sally overnight a couple shelters back. She's on her way. Should get here tomorrow. We (Fidget, N-Da-Wind, Jessie's Girl, Jedi and Matt) found a wonderful unofficial campsite on a flat topped hill overlooking the rushing Nantahala River which sounded wonderful all night. We had a campfire, beer, and a great time. I'm SO relieved...I thought everyone was ahead of me and that I was all alone out here. I guess they all stayed an extra day in Franklin!

N-Da-Wind, Jedi, Jessie's Girl, Matt, Fidget
Jedi and Jessie's Girl Baltimore Jack, a Trail legend, and his pal Sergeant Rock showed up yesterday. They had some serious hooch - Jack is packing 25oz of Jim Beam which he ships himself in his mail drops - and gave me some. Then someone gave me a beer. This is like, about noon and I haven't eaten much since I'm not hiking. Whoo. Spin City.
BaltimoreJack unpacking his mail drop box
Baltimore Jack, me, Sergeant Rock
Baltimore Jack signing my hiking pole

Sergeant Rock signing my hiking pole I found a rain jacket discarded in a "hiker box" here (take what you want, leave what you don't). I cut the sleeves off to fit my water bottles and made carriers for them (dental floss for thread) to go on my pack straps for easy access. threw the jacket back in the box - maybe someone will want a short sleeved rain jacket.
My new water bottle carriers
Then Sergeant Rock had a proposition: his car was parked at Fontana Dam, 30 miles away, and he needed a 2nd driver to go with him in a borrowed car to get it. So I did that, but told him I needed an hour to sober up before we could go, since he and Jack got me drunk. Hard to believe that 2 days ago I was so miserable I wanted to go home.
(From Ellie's journal, April 15)
We're stopped - Constant, Shaun and I - at the Nantahal Outdoor Center, Wesser, NC, to do laundry, get a shower, buy food, etc. I picked up a mail drop I'd sent myelf with ETA April 15th - Bingo!! Spot on!
Naturally it's a beautiful sunny day, since we're off the Trail. As soon as we head out it'll turn cold and rainy.
Cold and rainy reminds me of another thing I've learned: It's hard to open a Zip-Loc bag when you're wearing fleece mitts covered with dog poop baggies.
Total miles so far: 135.0
Total marathons:5.15; 78.15 left
Miles to go:2,036.4 = NEW SECOND DIGIT!! Actually hit that days ago.
We're stopped - Constant, Shaun and I - at the Nantahal Outdoor Center, Wesser, NC, to do laundry, get a shower, buy food, etc. I picked up a mail drop I'd sent myelf with ETA April 15th - Bingo!! Spot on!
Naturally it's a beautiful sunny day, since we're off the Trail. As soon as we head out it'll turn cold and rainy.
Cold and rainy reminds me of another thing I've learned: It's hard to open a Zip-Loc bag when you're wearing fleece mitts covered with dog poop baggies.
Total miles so far: 135.0
Total marathons:5.15; 78.15 left
Miles to go:2,036.4 = NEW SECOND DIGIT!! Actually hit that days ago.
(From Ellie's journal, April 14)
Miles today: 15.5 - Wayah Shelter to Rufus Morgan Shelter which is 0.8 miles from the Nantahala Outdoor Center, Wesser, NC. "Constant" Amy and I hiked together. Tomorrow is her 27th birthday. Weird...when Avery was 7 months old, I had no idea that a woman I'd be hiking the AT with was being born then.
It was so funny in the shelter last night, 4 women and Shaun. The women talked about what women talk about - periods, PMS, hot flashes, pregnancies - and shaun read a book. At one point he tossed out "Pretty soon you're all going to dive for the chocolate and eat it all and then not have any until your next resupply."
Miles today: 15.5 - Wayah Shelter to Rufus Morgan Shelter which is 0.8 miles from the Nantahala Outdoor Center, Wesser, NC. "Constant" Amy and I hiked together. Tomorrow is her 27th birthday. Weird...when Avery was 7 months old, I had no idea that a woman I'd be hiking the AT with was being born then.
It was so funny in the shelter last night, 4 women and Shaun. The women talked about what women talk about - periods, PMS, hot flashes, pregnancies - and shaun read a book. At one point he tossed out "Pretty soon you're all going to dive for the chocolate and eat it all and then not have any until your next resupply."
DOWN DAYS
(from Ellie's journal, April 13)
Partly because I'm encased in my down comforter in the middle of the day. Partly because I've been feeling down.
In Franklin my phone wouldn't work and I couldn't find sally. Yesterday I started the trail again assuming she was ahead of me, then learned via trail grapevine that she was "zeroing" (rest day, 0 miles) in franklin. So I was ahead of her. I could stop somewhere and wait for HER to catch up with ME. Yay!
Testerday was warm and sunny, a beautiful Easter hiking day. I'd found a church - Methodist - with an 8:30 service and great contemporary songs. During the sermon, I got feeling icky. Hot, faint. I'm no longer used to sitting still in a closed space. I had to go out for a while.
Got back on the trail about noon and hit 7 miles in 3 hours despite a newly-resupplied pack (heavy). Started down the path to the shelter and didn't like the looks - half a mile down a long hill and close enough to town that others might bypass it. I wasted probably a mile trying to decide and then headed for the next one, another 7. Met up with a high-school group whose teacher/counselor/fearless leader person told me it was a rough 7 miles and too late to be trying it. I kept on for about another half mile and decided he was right. turned around, knocked off anothe redundant mile till I found them again, and camped near them.
Today, doing the 7 I'd started yesterday, I'm glad I didn't try it. It was rough.
Figured if Sally starts from town today, this shelter here would give her 11 miles, I'll wait here for her. But she must have gone on to the next for a 16-miler...no sign of her, and I've been here almost 4 hours. Finally got a little spasm of residual life on my phone and had 3 voicemails from her, desperately trying to find me in Franklin. Now my phone is croaking again, hers is either turned off or no signal, and I'm trying to communicate with her via Trail grapevine.
It's cold, so foggy that 4 of us are looking through mist at each other in the shelter, sitting inside our sleeping bags for warmth. Now that I've decided Sally went on, it's too late to try the 5 miles to catch up with her.
I'm with "Itchy", a young woman who started south from Harper's Ferry, WV in late January after a personal crisis, Shaun, a young man who hasn't said much, and a woman with a sprained ankle and a bad cold who is carrying her mother's ashes to scatter on Clingman's Dome, NC, the highest point on the trail, after which she'll continue on to Maine. That's about the most heartrending story I've heard so far.
Yesterday I was alone all day hiking, and today I was alone because no one had stayed where I started from so I was alone again today. Last night and today were the first times I've seriously thought "Why am I out here? I want to go home."
Now that I've found other humans I feel better. Amy, newly named "Constant" just showed up and I may start hanging with her.
Partly because I'm encased in my down comforter in the middle of the day. Partly because I've been feeling down.
In Franklin my phone wouldn't work and I couldn't find sally. Yesterday I started the trail again assuming she was ahead of me, then learned via trail grapevine that she was "zeroing" (rest day, 0 miles) in franklin. So I was ahead of her. I could stop somewhere and wait for HER to catch up with ME. Yay!
Testerday was warm and sunny, a beautiful Easter hiking day. I'd found a church - Methodist - with an 8:30 service and great contemporary songs. During the sermon, I got feeling icky. Hot, faint. I'm no longer used to sitting still in a closed space. I had to go out for a while.
Got back on the trail about noon and hit 7 miles in 3 hours despite a newly-resupplied pack (heavy). Started down the path to the shelter and didn't like the looks - half a mile down a long hill and close enough to town that others might bypass it. I wasted probably a mile trying to decide and then headed for the next one, another 7. Met up with a high-school group whose teacher/counselor/fearless leader person told me it was a rough 7 miles and too late to be trying it. I kept on for about another half mile and decided he was right. turned around, knocked off anothe redundant mile till I found them again, and camped near them.
Today, doing the 7 I'd started yesterday, I'm glad I didn't try it. It was rough.
Figured if Sally starts from town today, this shelter here would give her 11 miles, I'll wait here for her. But she must have gone on to the next for a 16-miler...no sign of her, and I've been here almost 4 hours. Finally got a little spasm of residual life on my phone and had 3 voicemails from her, desperately trying to find me in Franklin. Now my phone is croaking again, hers is either turned off or no signal, and I'm trying to communicate with her via Trail grapevine.
It's cold, so foggy that 4 of us are looking through mist at each other in the shelter, sitting inside our sleeping bags for warmth. Now that I've decided Sally went on, it's too late to try the 5 miles to catch up with her.
I'm with "Itchy", a young woman who started south from Harper's Ferry, WV in late January after a personal crisis, Shaun, a young man who hasn't said much, and a woman with a sprained ankle and a bad cold who is carrying her mother's ashes to scatter on Clingman's Dome, NC, the highest point on the trail, after which she'll continue on to Maine. That's about the most heartrending story I've heard so far.
Yesterday I was alone all day hiking, and today I was alone because no one had stayed where I started from so I was alone again today. Last night and today were the first times I've seriously thought "Why am I out here? I want to go home."
Now that I've found other humans I feel better. Amy, newly named "Constant" just showed up and I may start hanging with her.
Saturday, April 25, 2009
LIVE FROM GATLINBURG
Spent last night with Sally in a motel in Gatlinburg. I'm waiting for the outfitter to open, then will be heading back to the trail and meeting up with her tonight.

There's a gang that's formed, mostly women, and last night we all got shirts made up: AT logo with "Hiker Trash" and our trail name, surrounded by color bursts. My shirt is light pink, made with the sleeves and collar "ripped off" (looks like trash, $2.99 on the clearance rack), the color swirls are light blue and lavender, and the print is black. Goes perfectly with my black running/hiking mini skirt. I'll get a picture and see if Steve can coordinate it with this post!

My name isn't MacGyver anymore. I'm Yard Sale. When I'm setting up or breaking down camp, I can't get myself organize unless I lay all my stuff out on the ground. They say it looks like I'm having a yard sale. N-Da-Wind named me. She said it's also a skiing term: when a downhill skier wipes out and gear flies everywhere, they call it a yard sale.
So I'm Yard Sale. I like its metaphorical lilt, too: a yard sale is where you get rid of stuff that doesn't serve you anymore and is just cluttering up your life.
Friday, April 24, 2009
LIVE FROM ASHEVILLE, NC
Which is not on the Trail!! A member of my Women Hikers List met Sally and me at a crossing, took Sally to a motel in Gatlinburg, TN, and brought me home with her to Asheville (1.5 hr drive.) I got a wonderful dinner long bath and got my clothes washed and she made me a silnylon stuff sack and helped me weed out unnecessary and redundant stuff from my pack. Later today she'll take me back to Gatlinburg where I'll share the room with Sally tonight, and then S. and I will get back on the Trail tomorrow.
205 miles down. Another 13 (one day's hike or less) and I'll have 1/10 of the distance done. Just have to do it 9 more times. That makes it sound totally doable.
We did one 17 mile day and an 18; usually, lately, it's 12-15. Up, down, up, down, up, down.
No tendon trouble. The skin is coming off my heels, though, despite blister bandages, tape, abrasion covers, everything I can think of. Judy (who brought me to her home) says it'll pass.
Going through Great Smoky Mountains National Park now. Gorgeous.
I hope Judy's scale is wrong. It's showing a 10-pound loss. Last time I checked (motel in Fontana Dam, NC, 4 days ago) I'd lost 7.... over 2 pounds a week. So another 3 in 4 days is alarming. I mean, I'm not too skinny or anything.... I'm just losing so fast it appears I need to eat more. But that means I have to carry it.... Maybe 10 pounds off my body means I can carry 10 pounds more in my pack. Ew. Not.
Gorgeous scenery and wildflowers; funny stories, like the night in a shelter where a mouse gave birth to babies in someone's backpack. I wasn't there for that but Sally was (when she was in one place and I was in another) and the story is all over the Trail.
Have seen no bears, snakes, wild hogs, or even many birds. Couple of white-tailed deer. But the wildflowers are gorgeous. White trillium, trout lilies, YELLOW trillium, and Spring Beauties, gorgeous star-shaped little white flowers with delicate pink brushstrokes.
I miss my family. I miss my husband. I've had some miserable days but mostly I am loving every inch of this Trail.
205 miles down. Another 13 (one day's hike or less) and I'll have 1/10 of the distance done. Just have to do it 9 more times. That makes it sound totally doable.
We did one 17 mile day and an 18; usually, lately, it's 12-15. Up, down, up, down, up, down.
No tendon trouble. The skin is coming off my heels, though, despite blister bandages, tape, abrasion covers, everything I can think of. Judy (who brought me to her home) says it'll pass.
Going through Great Smoky Mountains National Park now. Gorgeous.
I hope Judy's scale is wrong. It's showing a 10-pound loss. Last time I checked (motel in Fontana Dam, NC, 4 days ago) I'd lost 7.... over 2 pounds a week. So another 3 in 4 days is alarming. I mean, I'm not too skinny or anything.... I'm just losing so fast it appears I need to eat more. But that means I have to carry it.... Maybe 10 pounds off my body means I can carry 10 pounds more in my pack. Ew. Not.
Gorgeous scenery and wildflowers; funny stories, like the night in a shelter where a mouse gave birth to babies in someone's backpack. I wasn't there for that but Sally was (when she was in one place and I was in another) and the story is all over the Trail.
Have seen no bears, snakes, wild hogs, or even many birds. Couple of white-tailed deer. But the wildflowers are gorgeous. White trillium, trout lilies, YELLOW trillium, and Spring Beauties, gorgeous star-shaped little white flowers with delicate pink brushstrokes.I miss my family. I miss my husband. I've had some miserable days but mostly I am loving every inch of this Trail.
Wednesday, April 22, 2009
Tuesday, April 21, 2009
April 21st update
(Steve) I talked to Ellie last night.
She was spending the night near Fontana Dam, NC. Everythings OK except her carpel tunnel is acting up again.
Today she & the group will be hiking UP! into Great Smokey Mountain National Park.
She was spending the night near Fontana Dam, NC. Everythings OK except her carpel tunnel is acting up again.
Today she & the group will be hiking UP! into Great Smokey Mountain National Park.
Sunday, April 19, 2009
April 19th update
I talked to Ellie on Saturday. She was heading out after a two day rest in town. She waited for Sally who had developed a sore knee, and others to catch up. She was planning on making about 11 miles that day, Then 8-11 on Sunday and arriving in the next town Monday morning to re-supply and pick up her new phone and camera card. When she sends me the old one, I will post some pictures. I'm sure she would appreciate cards & letters along the way. Call or e-mail me and I can give you an address where she will be in the near future.
Steve.
Steve.
Saturday, April 18, 2009
(from Ellie's journal, April 10)
Ten miles farther, yet. Coyotes during the night raised a ruckus, awesome. I thought the first whoops were some kind of owl, until they all got in on it. I loved it.
Rain started just as we were breaking camp. Poured ALL DAY LONG. Cold rain. 11 miles to Carter Gap shelter, which was not in a gap but on a mountain. Glad I stopped when I did because we got horrendous thunderstorms and hail. Stayed under the shelter roof until it let up then hit my tent at 6:30pm and stayed there. Glad I at least was under the rhododendrons and not in the open.
Ten miles farther, yet. Coyotes during the night raised a ruckus, awesome. I thought the first whoops were some kind of owl, until they all got in on it. I loved it.
Rain started just as we were breaking camp. Poured ALL DAY LONG. Cold rain. 11 miles to Carter Gap shelter, which was not in a gap but on a mountain. Glad I stopped when I did because we got horrendous thunderstorms and hail. Stayed under the shelter roof until it let up then hit my tent at 6:30pm and stayed there. Glad I at least was under the rhododendrons and not in the open.
Left Behind

(From Ellie's journal, April 8)
There was a reason i didn't go on. When I went to the spring for water I found 2 young men, one with a Bible and the other with a guitar, which he was playing barehanded in the freezing cold. They were out there (WAY out there) seeking Answers. I told them I was, too, and we talked theology until they were near hypothermic. I brought them to the shelter and made them hot tea, they signed my hiking poles, and said they'd found some of their answers in the words we'd exchanged. I told them i had, too.
Last night in the shelter we had 7 people (I was the only woman). Inside we pitched 3 tents and the other 4 slept in between and behind them, so they also had protection from the tents. Envy not, girls....
There was a reason i didn't go on. When I went to the spring for water I found 2 young men, one with a Bible and the other with a guitar, which he was playing barehanded in the freezing cold. They were out there (WAY out there) seeking Answers. I told them I was, too, and we talked theology until they were near hypothermic. I brought them to the shelter and made them hot tea, they signed my hiking poles, and said they'd found some of their answers in the words we'd exchanged. I told them i had, too.
Last night in the shelter we had 7 people (I was the only woman). Inside we pitched 3 tents and the other 4 slept in between and behind them, so they also had protection from the tents. Envy not, girls....
Feeling Better!
(from Ellie's journal, April 7)
Plan was to go to shelter 5 miles out, I got there and set up my camp, my friends came along and said they were going 5 more miles to the next one.
I stayed Moved my tent into the shelter. Only girl among about 8 guys of various ages. 2 more have their tents in the shelter, 2 in between tents in sleeping bags, several outside in tents. One has a tarp pitched over a hammock. It's windy and snowy. Rhododendron leaves are curled = temps below freezing. Prediction tonight is 21 degrees. sunny tomorrow, 60's, I'm going to try for 11 miles to Hiawasee, where Steve will meet me.
Plan was to go to shelter 5 miles out, I got there and set up my camp, my friends came along and said they were going 5 more miles to the next one.
I stayed Moved my tent into the shelter. Only girl among about 8 guys of various ages. 2 more have their tents in the shelter, 2 in between tents in sleeping bags, several outside in tents. One has a tarp pitched over a hammock. It's windy and snowy. Rhododendron leaves are curled = temps below freezing. Prediction tonight is 21 degrees. sunny tomorrow, 60's, I'm going to try for 11 miles to Hiawasee, where Steve will meet me.
Day of Rest
(from Ellie's journal, April 6)
I woke up feeling like crap. All shaky and sickish and jittery, like after a really hard marathon. N-Da-wind was rarin' to go until she heard the weather forecast, wind advisory and 3-6 inches of snow. So we stayed in Helen, GA for the day. funny "rest" - we walked and walked. We were told there was an outfitter at the other end of town, so we walked maybe a mile there, found out they only sold fishing supplies, and walked back. Then i made a couple more mile round trips to the Dollar Store, drug store, etc.
I have just realized that if I write out all this long prose I'll never keep up. Already I'm backtracking writing entries a day or two late.
R&R = rest and relaxation (or is it recreation?)
RRRR = refuel, rehydrate, rest, relax.
I woke up feeling like crap. All shaky and sickish and jittery, like after a really hard marathon. N-Da-wind was rarin' to go until she heard the weather forecast, wind advisory and 3-6 inches of snow. So we stayed in Helen, GA for the day. funny "rest" - we walked and walked. We were told there was an outfitter at the other end of town, so we walked maybe a mile there, found out they only sold fishing supplies, and walked back. Then i made a couple more mile round trips to the Dollar Store, drug store, etc.
I have just realized that if I write out all this long prose I'll never keep up. Already I'm backtracking writing entries a day or two late.
R&R = rest and relaxation (or is it recreation?)
RRRR = refuel, rehydrate, rest, relax.
No Water, no Go!
(from Ellie's journal, April 5)
New hiking pal N-Da-Wind and I were together today. We started as a trio including sally, who quickly left us in the dust. We plodded along. N-Da-Wind hikes more slowly than I do, taking more time to stop and smell the roses. But I was slow today; picked up new food and too much of it trying to eat enough. I had more weight than I should have. I also had new boots. I was getting tired very fast. We came to a road after 5 miles. N-Da-Wind was out of water. The only prospect for some shelter was a shelter 2 miles away, 1.2 of that down a steep hill that would have to be re climbed. It's being recommended to avoid actually staying at that shelter due to bear and possible human interlopers. Next one was 5 miles. a lady hiker offered us a ride to town for water, and said she could then return us to the trail afterwards, so we went with her. During the 10 mile ride, I looked at my guidebook and said "N-Da-Wind, there's a million motels there...what do you say about staying in town and getting back on the trail tomorrow?" "Hey, I'm all over that idea," she said. so we did. We'll start tomorrow where we left off.
New hiking pal N-Da-Wind and I were together today. We started as a trio including sally, who quickly left us in the dust. We plodded along. N-Da-Wind hikes more slowly than I do, taking more time to stop and smell the roses. But I was slow today; picked up new food and too much of it trying to eat enough. I had more weight than I should have. I also had new boots. I was getting tired very fast. We came to a road after 5 miles. N-Da-Wind was out of water. The only prospect for some shelter was a shelter 2 miles away, 1.2 of that down a steep hill that would have to be re climbed. It's being recommended to avoid actually staying at that shelter due to bear and possible human interlopers. Next one was 5 miles. a lady hiker offered us a ride to town for water, and said she could then return us to the trail afterwards, so we went with her. During the 10 mile ride, I looked at my guidebook and said "N-Da-Wind, there's a million motels there...what do you say about staying in town and getting back on the trail tomorrow?" "Hey, I'm all over that idea," she said. so we did. We'll start tomorrow where we left off.
Wednesday, April 15, 2009
Update
Ellie called today. She's doin fine, hiking with Amy. She's doing about 12 miles a day in rain, snow, and what ever else the postal service says they deliver in. By Sunday she should be entering Smoky Mountains National Park. 134 miles down, 2040 to go.
Tuesday, April 14, 2009
Update.
April 11th
(Steve) I met Ellie in Franklin, NC with her next weeks supplies. We went out to dinner at Shonny's all you can eat seafood buffet. She was staying in a motel with plans on attending Easter services the next morning. When I talked to her on Monday the 13th her phone battery was dying but she had made 5 miles after church on Sunday and planning on 10-12 that day. I'm mailing her a new phone.
(Steve) I met Ellie in Franklin, NC with her next weeks supplies. We went out to dinner at Shonny's all you can eat seafood buffet. She was staying in a motel with plans on attending Easter services the next morning. When I talked to her on Monday the 13th her phone battery was dying but she had made 5 miles after church on Sunday and planning on 10-12 that day. I'm mailing her a new phone.
Sunday, April 12, 2009
Neel's Gap!
(From Ellie's journal, April 4 - Saturday)
The first real milestone! The trail passes right through a historic stone building that houses an outfitter, 18-bunk hostel ($15 a night) showers, TOWELS (you don't have to dry yourself with a bandana), washer and dryer. Everyone's been saying for three days "When I get to Neel's Gap I'm going to..." It's all you hear, like some kind of Mecca. and it really is. I got food - Trail Dames, a hiking group, were hosting a huge barbecue, like the most awesome post-marathon food station including hamburgers, hot dogs, chili, sauerkraut, chips, cookies, Krispy Kremes, just awesome. A couple of them "knew" me already from the Women Hikers List yahoo group. We were so excited to meet!
n the outfitter a woman the age of my daughter Avery helped me go through my pack, toss unnecessary stuff, and re-organize it. She helped me shed 2.5 pounds. That's significant but nowhere near the average 12.5. So I'd done a pretty good lightweight job from the start. My weight is 27-30 pounds depending on how much food I have.
Best of all - Steve met me here with love, kisses, and a food box. I'm afraid that with the pack shakedown and flitting about with my new friends I didn't spend as much time with him as I could have. He brought me a 4-pack of little Sutter Home Merlot to share with my hostel mates tonight.
And I finally caught up with sally. This is her second night here. She beat me by a whole day. Well, now that I'm toughening up, maybe I can keep up with her. Or not. We're going to start together, anyhow!
Tomorrow is a 10-mile day. There's a closer shelter but there's a Bear Warning and hikers are advised to skip that one and move on.
It's 5:30 am. I've been awake since 3:30. Went to sleep about 10:30. I thought insomnia wouldn't be a problem on the trail but it is. Anxiety goes with it. I feel "attacks" starting as soon as I settle down in my tent. We are so out in the middle of nowhere. Instead of kicking my anxiety and sleep meds, I'm taking the max of both. Had I not had that humdinger panic attack in October, been hospitalized overnight, tested out the wazoo, and pronounced healthy other than a panic disorder, I'd probably have had one on the trail and quit by now. Instead, I recognize it, breathe deeply, remember there's nothing wrong, and get over it.
Maybe God arranged that big one for me to get it over and done so I could hike armed with that it's "only" anxiety. And quite possibly as we continue, I'll get over it.
Sally walks ahead of me, N-Da-Wind behind me (although we are together a lot) but the lord always walks with me. In the rustling grass I hear Him pass, He speaks to me everywhere.
The first real milestone! The trail passes right through a historic stone building that houses an outfitter, 18-bunk hostel ($15 a night) showers, TOWELS (you don't have to dry yourself with a bandana), washer and dryer. Everyone's been saying for three days "When I get to Neel's Gap I'm going to..." It's all you hear, like some kind of Mecca. and it really is. I got food - Trail Dames, a hiking group, were hosting a huge barbecue, like the most awesome post-marathon food station including hamburgers, hot dogs, chili, sauerkraut, chips, cookies, Krispy Kremes, just awesome. A couple of them "knew" me already from the Women Hikers List yahoo group. We were so excited to meet!
n the outfitter a woman the age of my daughter Avery helped me go through my pack, toss unnecessary stuff, and re-organize it. She helped me shed 2.5 pounds. That's significant but nowhere near the average 12.5. So I'd done a pretty good lightweight job from the start. My weight is 27-30 pounds depending on how much food I have.
Best of all - Steve met me here with love, kisses, and a food box. I'm afraid that with the pack shakedown and flitting about with my new friends I didn't spend as much time with him as I could have. He brought me a 4-pack of little Sutter Home Merlot to share with my hostel mates tonight.
And I finally caught up with sally. This is her second night here. She beat me by a whole day. Well, now that I'm toughening up, maybe I can keep up with her. Or not. We're going to start together, anyhow!
Tomorrow is a 10-mile day. There's a closer shelter but there's a Bear Warning and hikers are advised to skip that one and move on.
It's 5:30 am. I've been awake since 3:30. Went to sleep about 10:30. I thought insomnia wouldn't be a problem on the trail but it is. Anxiety goes with it. I feel "attacks" starting as soon as I settle down in my tent. We are so out in the middle of nowhere. Instead of kicking my anxiety and sleep meds, I'm taking the max of both. Had I not had that humdinger panic attack in October, been hospitalized overnight, tested out the wazoo, and pronounced healthy other than a panic disorder, I'd probably have had one on the trail and quit by now. Instead, I recognize it, breathe deeply, remember there's nothing wrong, and get over it.
Maybe God arranged that big one for me to get it over and done so I could hike armed with that it's "only" anxiety. And quite possibly as we continue, I'll get over it.
Sally walks ahead of me, N-Da-Wind behind me (although we are together a lot) but the lord always walks with me. In the rustling grass I hear Him pass, He speaks to me everywhere.
Saturday, April 11, 2009
FRANKLIN, NC
Whew! I did a half-marathon in 5.5 hours today! Yay!
Last night at Carter Gap Shelter, we had torrential rain, high wind, thunder, lightning, and hail that sounded like a dump truck unloading gravel. Learned today that there were tornadoes in the area; Murfreesboro, TN had a touchdown with fatalities.
My tent held firm.
Tendons are holding out. Legs are holding out. Spirits are holding out.
Last night at Carter Gap Shelter, we had torrential rain, high wind, thunder, lightning, and hail that sounded like a dump truck unloading gravel. Learned today that there were tornadoes in the area; Murfreesboro, TN had a touchdown with fatalities.
My tent held firm.
Tendons are holding out. Legs are holding out. Spirits are holding out.
At a motel waiting for Steve, he just pulled up.... later!!
Friday, April 10, 2009
Judge Not
(From Ellie's journal, April 3 - Friday)
I've been noticing with some astonishment the amount of trash there is on the trail. Lots of top strips torn from foil tuna packets (Like power gel top strips at a marathon or triathlon) And plastic baggies. Bits of candy-bar wrappers. And dog doo. People are supposed to "go" 200 feet away from the path and bury it 6 inches deep, but they're letting their dogs do it right on the path and just leaving it.
Like most hikers, I keep my trash in a Zip Loc bag. Except then I can't remember which pocket its in so I start a new one, and then I can't find THAT one, so by the end of the day I've got several going.
So last night I pulled out a Wal-mart bag I'd been carrying in case I needed a Wal-mart bag, and found all my trash bags and consolidated them into that. I picked up some trash around the shelter (Gooch mountain). In the morning when I packed up, I hung it by its handles onto my pack belt where it couldn't get lost andI could easily add to it from my own wrappers or anyone elses.
At least that was the plan. At a break I ate a Pay Day bar and picked up someone elses tuna packet and...where's my Wal-mart bag? Definitely not on my belt. I looked around. Maybe it fell of when I undid my belt buckle. Nope. Gone. Non-existent. So I started a new Zip Loc and the losing-it pattern started again.
Now, I'd done a lot of griping and criticizing and beefing to hike-mates about "I can't believe how much trash people leave on this trail. What happened to Leave No Trace? Are they just careless or really don't care or what? It's inexcusable." And now I'd dropped a whole BAG of trash somewhere without knowing it.
My hike-mate of the day, "N-Da-wind" laughed and laughed. I thought she'd break a rib. I laughed too, but I started thinking.
I criticize people a lot behind their backs. This person does this, that person does that, people do xyz. The implication being "Of course, I don't behave like that, I'm better." Yup. Uh-huh. Right. I'd never be two-faced, or talk too much, or annoy anyone, or complain, for that matter. Because I don't do things like that.
My Hero said "Don't try to take the speck out of your brother's eye until you take the plank out of your own. Then you'll be able to see to help him with his speck."
N-Da-Wind, a hardcore biker chick and heavy duty construction worker, when she was finally able to stop laughing, said "Maybe God brought you out here where it's quiet so he can talk to you. There's things he wants you to learn."
So I'm making a special effort to say something nice or say nothing at all.
It rained off and on the whole windy day. There were views bu we couldn't see them. I took pictures of fungi.
The shelter was drafty and cold, and I thought my tent would be warmer. More people showed up and it started crowding up because the weather was so nasty. One guy said if there was no room inside, he'd take the picnic table under the overhang.
I moved out. I might get a little damper in the tent but I'd be warmer, and could get up in the night to pee without stepping on people and/or falling out of the loft. So I moved out. A singing, dancing Irish guy about my age thanked meand quipped "Aye, it's yer Chrrristian dyuty, Mum." I laughed back "Now THAT'S a little below the belt!!" He's walking from Florida to Canada, road-and-trail combo, raising money for Parkinson's disease.
N-Da-Wind and I hiked ELEVEN miles, crashed a mile short of Woods Hole Shelter, and found a great campsite. A gale was blowing and we hung our tents and sleeping bags up to dry. One the lea side of the hill, there was an old logging road, flat, unused, out of all wind. Three men about our age (50's) had built a campsite. Oh, warmth!!
As I cooked my awesome lentil stuff, I realized I hadn't eaten much all day. Some Granola and milk at the shelter, a Pay Day, and 2 six-packs of cheese crackers. Over 11 miles of strenuous up-and-down hiking. I was tired, having given up a mile short of the shelter. No wonder. I can't hike if I'm going to eat like that. I get on a roll and just don't bother. That's gotta stop.
Tendons are doing well, praise the Lord. The last couple hours or miles today they ached about a 1.5 on a scale of 10. I have gone 27 miles in 3 days - a marathon with a warm down. 2156 miles to go. another heartening drop in that third digit. One marathon down, 82.3 to go.
Thank you, Lord.
I've been noticing with some astonishment the amount of trash there is on the trail. Lots of top strips torn from foil tuna packets (Like power gel top strips at a marathon or triathlon) And plastic baggies. Bits of candy-bar wrappers. And dog doo. People are supposed to "go" 200 feet away from the path and bury it 6 inches deep, but they're letting their dogs do it right on the path and just leaving it.
Like most hikers, I keep my trash in a Zip Loc bag. Except then I can't remember which pocket its in so I start a new one, and then I can't find THAT one, so by the end of the day I've got several going.
So last night I pulled out a Wal-mart bag I'd been carrying in case I needed a Wal-mart bag, and found all my trash bags and consolidated them into that. I picked up some trash around the shelter (Gooch mountain). In the morning when I packed up, I hung it by its handles onto my pack belt where it couldn't get lost andI could easily add to it from my own wrappers or anyone elses.
At least that was the plan. At a break I ate a Pay Day bar and picked up someone elses tuna packet and...where's my Wal-mart bag? Definitely not on my belt. I looked around. Maybe it fell of when I undid my belt buckle. Nope. Gone. Non-existent. So I started a new Zip Loc and the losing-it pattern started again.
Now, I'd done a lot of griping and criticizing and beefing to hike-mates about "I can't believe how much trash people leave on this trail. What happened to Leave No Trace? Are they just careless or really don't care or what? It's inexcusable." And now I'd dropped a whole BAG of trash somewhere without knowing it.
My hike-mate of the day, "N-Da-wind" laughed and laughed. I thought she'd break a rib. I laughed too, but I started thinking.
I criticize people a lot behind their backs. This person does this, that person does that, people do xyz. The implication being "Of course, I don't behave like that, I'm better." Yup. Uh-huh. Right. I'd never be two-faced, or talk too much, or annoy anyone, or complain, for that matter. Because I don't do things like that.
My Hero said "Don't try to take the speck out of your brother's eye until you take the plank out of your own. Then you'll be able to see to help him with his speck."
N-Da-Wind, a hardcore biker chick and heavy duty construction worker, when she was finally able to stop laughing, said "Maybe God brought you out here where it's quiet so he can talk to you. There's things he wants you to learn."
So I'm making a special effort to say something nice or say nothing at all.
It rained off and on the whole windy day. There were views bu we couldn't see them. I took pictures of fungi.
The shelter was drafty and cold, and I thought my tent would be warmer. More people showed up and it started crowding up because the weather was so nasty. One guy said if there was no room inside, he'd take the picnic table under the overhang.
I moved out. I might get a little damper in the tent but I'd be warmer, and could get up in the night to pee without stepping on people and/or falling out of the loft. So I moved out. A singing, dancing Irish guy about my age thanked meand quipped "Aye, it's yer Chrrristian dyuty, Mum." I laughed back "Now THAT'S a little below the belt!!" He's walking from Florida to Canada, road-and-trail combo, raising money for Parkinson's disease.
N-Da-Wind and I hiked ELEVEN miles, crashed a mile short of Woods Hole Shelter, and found a great campsite. A gale was blowing and we hung our tents and sleeping bags up to dry. One the lea side of the hill, there was an old logging road, flat, unused, out of all wind. Three men about our age (50's) had built a campsite. Oh, warmth!!
As I cooked my awesome lentil stuff, I realized I hadn't eaten much all day. Some Granola and milk at the shelter, a Pay Day, and 2 six-packs of cheese crackers. Over 11 miles of strenuous up-and-down hiking. I was tired, having given up a mile short of the shelter. No wonder. I can't hike if I'm going to eat like that. I get on a roll and just don't bother. That's gotta stop.
Tendons are doing well, praise the Lord. The last couple hours or miles today they ached about a 1.5 on a scale of 10. I have gone 27 miles in 3 days - a marathon with a warm down. 2156 miles to go. another heartening drop in that third digit. One marathon down, 82.3 to go.
Thank you, Lord.
Remember The Important Things
(From Ellie's journal April 1 -Wednesday)
Like the toilet paper. I can't find my pit bag. Honest. I've only been on the trail one day and already I'm classifying plants by how well they work as toilet paper.
8 miles down, 2, 175 to go. It's nice to have a new third digit already. Actually, I walked NINE miles - Steve and I parked in the parking lot and walked the mile up Springer Mt. to the trailhead, where my miles started to "count". We kissed goodbye, I gave him my gaiters which I already didn't like, and I was on my own.
Beautiful, misty day, saturating the color of the moss and lichens and tree trunks. Rhododendron is just starting to show buds.
After I stopped at Hawk Mt. Shelter, bugs were a problem. Gnats or something. I have a head net and the guys in the camp were jealous. I said I'd barter: 15 minutes with the headnet for a foot of toilet paper. One of the guys (trail name Bluegrass) said "That's the true mountain currency - toilet paper!"
Later, someone had a craving for dessert- she gave me TP in exchange for instant pudding.
I'm still scatterbrained. I couldn't find my knife - someone lent me theirs. I lost my lighter - someone gave me a few matches. I'm glad I already have a Trail Name (MacGyver) - I'm sure if I were waiting to be "christened" I'd already be "TP". Or "Losing It". Or "Moocher".
Like the toilet paper. I can't find my pit bag. Honest. I've only been on the trail one day and already I'm classifying plants by how well they work as toilet paper.
8 miles down, 2, 175 to go. It's nice to have a new third digit already. Actually, I walked NINE miles - Steve and I parked in the parking lot and walked the mile up Springer Mt. to the trailhead, where my miles started to "count". We kissed goodbye, I gave him my gaiters which I already didn't like, and I was on my own.
Beautiful, misty day, saturating the color of the moss and lichens and tree trunks. Rhododendron is just starting to show buds.
After I stopped at Hawk Mt. Shelter, bugs were a problem. Gnats or something. I have a head net and the guys in the camp were jealous. I said I'd barter: 15 minutes with the headnet for a foot of toilet paper. One of the guys (trail name Bluegrass) said "That's the true mountain currency - toilet paper!"
Later, someone had a craving for dessert- she gave me TP in exchange for instant pudding.
I'm still scatterbrained. I couldn't find my knife - someone lent me theirs. I lost my lighter - someone gave me a few matches. I'm glad I already have a Trail Name (MacGyver) - I'm sure if I were waiting to be "christened" I'd already be "TP". Or "Losing It". Or "Moocher".
Thursday, April 09, 2009
Well, I got to spend the night at home with my husband last night :-) He met me at a road crossing near Hiawassee, GA and brought me home, cooked me a lovely steak dinner, did my laundry, showed me around his new digs (very pretty State Park campground on a lake), took me to Wal-Mart (I keep needing "stuff.") Hard to go back to the Trail this morning after the nice warm bed w/ him in it :-)
67 miles down, 2016 to go. Eighty-one marathons left of the 83.3. Four pounds down. I better eat more fat. Most days I get to my destination 1-2 hours ahead of my estimate. Tendons are fine, ache a little sometimes but no real trouble. I bought full-length Spenco arch-support orthotics and pitched my prescription ones and my feet feel so much better. I hated those orthotics. They were stupid. I have a toe blister that's bothersome; I'm taking care of it. I got new boots at Neels Gap and love them to death, way better than my worn-out trail runners. Pair of microfiber dress tights I picked up for $6 in New Orleans have held up so far w/o a single hole. They're my lightweight bottom layer and I've worn them every day.
Night before last it was 21*F at Tray Mountain Shelter where I stayed, blowing snow into the shelter, wind sounded like Niagara Falls. I was with about 10 guys, no other girls!! Three of us pitched tents inside the shelter, 4 more slept in between the tents (actually very efficient use of both shelter and tents, everyone got the benefit of both) and the other die-hards camped, one in a hammock w/ tarp over it. My 20* down bag kept me nice and warm.
I have a new Trail Name:Yard Sale. My stuff gets disorganized inside my tent, and in the morning I lay it all out on my ground cloth to make sure I can find everything and get it reorganized. They say it looks like I'm having a yard sale; before I get it laid out it looks like when a skier wipes out and his gear flies everywhere and they call it a yard sale. Reminds me again of that phrase I want on my gravestone...."Did I Miss Anything?"Speaking of missing, I'm missing about a 13-mile section already. Getting a ride into town (Helen, GA) and back to the trail didn't work out to the same stop-start place. It could have but I wanted to stay with my friends. Ironically, we all started in different groups with different rides (most had stayed overnighit in Helen due to weather forecast), moved at different paces,and I'm not with them currently anyway. I'll catch up today, waiting for a parcel at the post office. I will no doubt go back and do that section within the year. But I'm wondering if part of the purpose of this trip is to teach me not to be so compulsive about getting everything exactly right, going back, doing over, editing, re-editing..... but you can't call it an authenticthru-hike if you miss a section and don't make it up.
Characters on the Trail:Me (MacGyver aka Yard Sale), N-Da-Wind, hardcore biker-chick construction worker. Patience, a deaf fellow, Impatience, his service dog, Muscles, who has become his girlfriend, to all appearances, Ten-Sticks Arriba (that's my starting partner Sally, "The Fastest Mouse in the World-- she BOOKS, which is why we're not together at the moment, I'm not as trained as she is and I'm still coming back from injury), Fleet and Gaia, both women, traveling together, Wishbone, Bluegrass.
Today or tomorrow I should move into NC, depending on when the mail is available at the P.O.
Well, it was supposed to be a quickie... :-)Ellie/MacGyver aka Yard Sale
(Steve), the new tent came in the mail, so Ellie unpacked everything next to the post office and repacked with the new tent.
I dropped her off at the trail and she headed north. I talked to her on the phone and she had caught up with Sally, etal and had made the NC bourder.
67 miles down, 2016 to go. Eighty-one marathons left of the 83.3. Four pounds down. I better eat more fat. Most days I get to my destination 1-2 hours ahead of my estimate. Tendons are fine, ache a little sometimes but no real trouble. I bought full-length Spenco arch-support orthotics and pitched my prescription ones and my feet feel so much better. I hated those orthotics. They were stupid. I have a toe blister that's bothersome; I'm taking care of it. I got new boots at Neels Gap and love them to death, way better than my worn-out trail runners. Pair of microfiber dress tights I picked up for $6 in New Orleans have held up so far w/o a single hole. They're my lightweight bottom layer and I've worn them every day.
Night before last it was 21*F at Tray Mountain Shelter where I stayed, blowing snow into the shelter, wind sounded like Niagara Falls. I was with about 10 guys, no other girls!! Three of us pitched tents inside the shelter, 4 more slept in between the tents (actually very efficient use of both shelter and tents, everyone got the benefit of both) and the other die-hards camped, one in a hammock w/ tarp over it. My 20* down bag kept me nice and warm.
I have a new Trail Name:Yard Sale. My stuff gets disorganized inside my tent, and in the morning I lay it all out on my ground cloth to make sure I can find everything and get it reorganized. They say it looks like I'm having a yard sale; before I get it laid out it looks like when a skier wipes out and his gear flies everywhere and they call it a yard sale. Reminds me again of that phrase I want on my gravestone...."Did I Miss Anything?"Speaking of missing, I'm missing about a 13-mile section already. Getting a ride into town (Helen, GA) and back to the trail didn't work out to the same stop-start place. It could have but I wanted to stay with my friends. Ironically, we all started in different groups with different rides (most had stayed overnighit in Helen due to weather forecast), moved at different paces,and I'm not with them currently anyway. I'll catch up today, waiting for a parcel at the post office. I will no doubt go back and do that section within the year. But I'm wondering if part of the purpose of this trip is to teach me not to be so compulsive about getting everything exactly right, going back, doing over, editing, re-editing..... but you can't call it an authenticthru-hike if you miss a section and don't make it up.
Characters on the Trail:Me (MacGyver aka Yard Sale), N-Da-Wind, hardcore biker-chick construction worker. Patience, a deaf fellow, Impatience, his service dog, Muscles, who has become his girlfriend, to all appearances, Ten-Sticks Arriba (that's my starting partner Sally, "The Fastest Mouse in the World-- she BOOKS, which is why we're not together at the moment, I'm not as trained as she is and I'm still coming back from injury), Fleet and Gaia, both women, traveling together, Wishbone, Bluegrass.
Today or tomorrow I should move into NC, depending on when the mail is available at the P.O.
Well, it was supposed to be a quickie... :-)Ellie/MacGyver aka Yard Sale
(Steve), the new tent came in the mail, so Ellie unpacked everything next to the post office and repacked with the new tent.
I dropped her off at the trail and she headed north. I talked to her on the phone and she had caught up with Sally, etal and had made the NC bourder.
Tuesday, April 07, 2009
Blood Mountain shelter
Updae from Ellie
Hi, everyone! Getting ready to start Day 7 of my journey, Day 6 of hiking. Yesterday, Day 5, was a rest day. I shared a motel room in Helen, GA near Unicoi Gap, with another gal. She's fun, hard-core biker-chick construction worker. A dozen or so hikers have sort of formed a loose group; we run into each other here and there, get a day ahead or a day behind, then run into each other again. Yesterday just about the whole gang stayed in Helen. Bad weather (snowstorm) was predicted but missed us. It's cold out, maybe 30*F, snow flurries, wind advisory.
I got new hiking boots, and a new backpack via "Trail Magic" -- someone thought I needed a different one and pre-paid the outfitter at Neels Gap (Blairsville) and asked them to notify me to come in and be fitted. It's a ULA Catalyst, very awesome.
Hiked 7.8 miles the first day (rained), 7.3 the next(rained, then a monsoon all night) 11 the third (windy but dry,) then 5 (warm and beautiful,) then another 5, then crashed and burned and took a rest day. That's just about what I figured, rest about every 5 days till I get my "trail legs."
Wildflowers are coming up everywhere and it awesome to watch them in different stages of bud and bloom as the elevation changes and we move into early spring from late winter and back again. Red trillium, white trillium, some starry little white flowers that look like tulips when budding and turn into daisies (Star of Bethlehem?) Rhododendron is budding. Light blue, dark purple, and yellow violets. Awesome fungi with patterns like striated rock (think Sideling Hill if you know the Cumberland, MD area; google a picture of it if you're not). Amazing views -- couldn't see much the first 2 days b/c of rain and fog, but the next two it was gorgeous, and the trees aren't leafed out yet so they don't hide it.
On top of Blood Mt., someone had cut off and left an entire headful of light-brown dreadlocks 2 feet long. I heard from someone else that he'd had some kind of moment of truth and cut his hair as a symbolic expression.
One blister on my toe, not too bad.
I'm so glad I'm doing this. Steve met me at Neels Gap and is going to meet me again in Hiawassee. I called him yesterday to tell him I'd taken a rest day in Helen and he said he'd driven right through there on his way to his new campground job. Neither of us knew the other was there. Made me feel sad.
OK, time limit on hotel computer is up, ride back to Trail is coming soon, life is good!
Ellie/MacGyver
I got new hiking boots, and a new backpack via "Trail Magic" -- someone thought I needed a different one and pre-paid the outfitter at Neels Gap (Blairsville) and asked them to notify me to come in and be fitted. It's a ULA Catalyst, very awesome.
Hiked 7.8 miles the first day (rained), 7.3 the next(rained, then a monsoon all night) 11 the third (windy but dry,) then 5 (warm and beautiful,) then another 5, then crashed and burned and took a rest day. That's just about what I figured, rest about every 5 days till I get my "trail legs."
Wildflowers are coming up everywhere and it awesome to watch them in different stages of bud and bloom as the elevation changes and we move into early spring from late winter and back again. Red trillium, white trillium, some starry little white flowers that look like tulips when budding and turn into daisies (Star of Bethlehem?) Rhododendron is budding. Light blue, dark purple, and yellow violets. Awesome fungi with patterns like striated rock (think Sideling Hill if you know the Cumberland, MD area; google a picture of it if you're not). Amazing views -- couldn't see much the first 2 days b/c of rain and fog, but the next two it was gorgeous, and the trees aren't leafed out yet so they don't hide it.
On top of Blood Mt., someone had cut off and left an entire headful of light-brown dreadlocks 2 feet long. I heard from someone else that he'd had some kind of moment of truth and cut his hair as a symbolic expression.
One blister on my toe, not too bad.
I'm so glad I'm doing this. Steve met me at Neels Gap and is going to meet me again in Hiawassee. I called him yesterday to tell him I'd taken a rest day in Helen and he said he'd driven right through there on his way to his new campground job. Neither of us knew the other was there. Made me feel sad.
OK, time limit on hotel computer is up, ride back to Trail is coming soon, life is good!
Ellie/MacGyver
Saturday, April 04, 2009

(Steve) Met up with Ellie today. She's feeling fine and having a ball! She & Sally are spending the night in a hostel & heading out in the morning after she buys some new boots. The picture is of Ellie & a woman at the outfitter that checks all the stuff in your pack & recommends what to leave out. She lightened Ellie's pack by 2 1/2 pounds!
Friday, April 03, 2009
A rainy night in Georgia
Wednesday, April 01, 2009
Headed north
Springer Mountain, Georgia!
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