Friday, May 01, 2009


(Steve) Picture taken recently at the GA/NC boarder.
I think she looks good.
BTW, I've added a few pictures to some older posts.

Sunday, April 26, 2009

(from Ellie's journal, April 20)


Resting at the Hike Inn in Fontana dam, NC. rest, recuperate, refuel, rehydrate, resupply, reorganize. We're groaning that with the new 4-day food supply our packs are up to 30#.
I need to eat more. I have lost 7 pounds in 20 days. Gack, that means carrying more food, more weight in my pack. Well, it's 7# less on my body to lug, so it evens out, I guess.

LONGEST DAY!!!

(from Ellie's journal, April 19)


miles traveled: 18.2!!!
total so far: 163.7
stayed at the "Fontana Hilton" - Shelter that sleeps 24, with water fountain, outdoor spigot, trash cans, nearby real toilets (self-flushing, startled me), shower. Zero day tomorrow.

HIKING AGAIN

(From Ellie's journal, April 18)

Yayyy! Sally got to NOC about lunchtime yesterday, all hale and hearty and bubbling over with trail and shelter adventures. when I saw her I sat down and burst into tears. I told her how worried I'd been: to my vision, she'd been missing. She enthused about her hike and I protested about my trauma, neither of us relating. Finally she told me to get over it so I did.
Too late to start hiking so we camped. The same beautiful unofficial campsite, which I'd shared each night with whatever group of people I'd told about it, and occasionally someone who saw our campfires and came on up. It was on such a steep hill that there was a rope to climb up.




It had been some kind of estate - the whole hilltop was covered with English Ivy, underneath which were remains of a stone house, a mansion really. Big old climbing vines, big enough to swing on, turned out to be roses. climbing roses. I saw the leaves. That old, that huge. Wodden vines an inch in diameter. It must have been beautiful as an estate and I'd love to see those roses in bloom.
today we got underway once more. climbed up, up, up....3000ft elevation change over 8 miles. We were nervous for a while about what looked and smelled like a forest fire, watching the smoke, checking the wind, watching the reactions of birds and animals, who remained unconcerned. Turned out it was a controlled 200 acre burn in the Smokies, someone learned somehow.
So now we're camped after going down, down, down, six tents here, one hammock, 3 girls, 4 guys. Sally and I agree on a meeting point if we get ahead of each other, when one of us reaches that point, she does not proceed until the other has arrived. No more separation anxiety for me. I was ready to call out an App. Trail Comission search party for a missing hiker.
Miles today: 10.5, 6 hours including breaks.
Total miles so far: 163.7
Miles to go: 2032.8
Marathons down 5.5
Marathons to go:77.8
My pack weight at NOC, including 4 days of food and 36oz of water, was 26.5 pounds.
(From Ellie's journal, April 17)

Day 3 of living at the Nantahala Outdoor Center waiting for Sally. I feel like Novalee Nation living at the Wal-Mart. (Where the Heart Is). "Muscles"-a girl- came in this morning and says Sally's about 6 miles out, as are a bunch of other members of our original "gang" whom I assumed were far ahead. Things are looking up. I'm a veteran at living here...I show all the new-comers where the showers and washing machines are, and the hiker boxes, and the all-purpose common room, and the location of whatever they're looking for in the outfitter store here. I should be paid.

WAITING FOR SALLY

From Ellie's journal, April 16)

It turns out that Sally is most likely behind me, not ahead. Found out last night via grapevine that she stayed in Franklin nursing a sore knee. I called our next mail drop place Fontana and she has not picked up her box. So I'm waiting for the outfitter here at NOC to open this morning; I never thought to ask yesterday if she'd picked up THIS drop because I assumed she was a couple days ahead. I'm kicking myself for not knowing by ESP that she was behind me. I'm worried. If she hasn't picked up her box here, I'll wait until she does, and start calling places back in Franklin if hikers coming in today haven't passed her.

EVENING

"Fidget" (a guy) pulled in later and had been with Sally overnight a couple shelters back. She's on her way. Should get here tomorrow. We (Fidget, N-Da-Wind, Jessie's Girl, Jedi and Matt) found a wonderful unofficial campsite on a flat topped hill overlooking the rushing Nantahala River which sounded wonderful all night. We had a campfire, beer, and a great time. I'm SO relieved...I thought everyone was ahead of me and that I was all alone out here. I guess they all stayed an extra day in Franklin!

N-Da-Wind, Jedi, Jessie's Girl, Matt, Fidget


Jedi and Jessie's Girl


Baltimore Jack, a Trail legend, and his pal Sergeant Rock showed up yesterday. They had some serious hooch - Jack is packing 25oz of Jim Beam which he ships himself in his mail drops - and gave me some. Then someone gave me a beer. This is like, about noon and I haven't eaten much since I'm not hiking. Whoo. Spin City.

BaltimoreJack unpacking his mail drop box



Baltimore Jack, me, Sergeant Rock
Baltimore Jack signing my hiking pole




Sergeant Rock signing my hiking pole


I found a rain jacket discarded in a "hiker box" here (take what you want, leave what you don't). I cut the sleeves off to fit my water bottles and made carriers for them (dental floss for thread) to go on my pack straps for easy access. threw the jacket back in the box - maybe someone will want a short sleeved rain jacket.


My new water bottle carriers



Then Sergeant Rock had a proposition: his car was parked at Fontana Dam, 30 miles away, and he needed a 2nd driver to go with him in a borrowed car to get it. So I did that, but told him I needed an hour to sober up before we could go, since he and Jack got me drunk. Hard to believe that 2 days ago I was so miserable I wanted to go home.


(From Ellie's journal, April 15)


We're stopped - Constant, Shaun and I - at the Nantahal Outdoor Center, Wesser, NC, to do laundry, get a shower, buy food, etc. I picked up a mail drop I'd sent myelf with ETA April 15th - Bingo!! Spot on!
Naturally it's a beautiful sunny day, since we're off the Trail. As soon as we head out it'll turn cold and rainy.
Cold and rainy reminds me of another thing I've learned: It's hard to open a Zip-Loc bag when you're wearing fleece mitts covered with dog poop baggies.
Total miles so far: 135.0
Total marathons:5.15; 78.15 left
Miles to go:2,036.4 = NEW SECOND DIGIT!! Actually hit that days ago.
(From Ellie's journal, April 14)

Miles today: 15.5 - Wayah Shelter to Rufus Morgan Shelter which is 0.8 miles from the Nantahala Outdoor Center, Wesser, NC. "Constant" Amy and I hiked together. Tomorrow is her 27th birthday. Weird...when Avery was 7 months old, I had no idea that a woman I'd be hiking the AT with was being born then.
It was so funny in the shelter last night, 4 women and Shaun. The women talked about what women talk about - periods, PMS, hot flashes, pregnancies - and shaun read a book. At one point he tossed out "Pretty soon you're all going to dive for the chocolate and eat it all and then not have any until your next resupply."

DOWN DAYS

(from Ellie's journal, April 13)

Partly because I'm encased in my down comforter in the middle of the day. Partly because I've been feeling down.
In Franklin my phone wouldn't work and I couldn't find sally. Yesterday I started the trail again assuming she was ahead of me, then learned via trail grapevine that she was "zeroing" (rest day, 0 miles) in franklin. So I was ahead of her. I could stop somewhere and wait for HER to catch up with ME. Yay!
Testerday was warm and sunny, a beautiful Easter hiking day. I'd found a church - Methodist - with an 8:30 service and great contemporary songs. During the sermon, I got feeling icky. Hot, faint. I'm no longer used to sitting still in a closed space. I had to go out for a while.
Got back on the trail about noon and hit 7 miles in 3 hours despite a newly-resupplied pack (heavy). Started down the path to the shelter and didn't like the looks - half a mile down a long hill and close enough to town that others might bypass it. I wasted probably a mile trying to decide and then headed for the next one, another 7. Met up with a high-school group whose teacher/counselor/fearless leader person told me it was a rough 7 miles and too late to be trying it. I kept on for about another half mile and decided he was right. turned around, knocked off anothe redundant mile till I found them again, and camped near them.
Today, doing the 7 I'd started yesterday, I'm glad I didn't try it. It was rough.
Figured if Sally starts from town today, this shelter here would give her 11 miles, I'll wait here for her. But she must have gone on to the next for a 16-miler...no sign of her, and I've been here almost 4 hours. Finally got a little spasm of residual life on my phone and had 3 voicemails from her, desperately trying to find me in Franklin. Now my phone is croaking again, hers is either turned off or no signal, and I'm trying to communicate with her via Trail grapevine.
It's cold, so foggy that 4 of us are looking through mist at each other in the shelter, sitting inside our sleeping bags for warmth. Now that I've decided Sally went on, it's too late to try the 5 miles to catch up with her.
I'm with "Itchy", a young woman who started south from Harper's Ferry, WV in late January after a personal crisis, Shaun, a young man who hasn't said much, and a woman with a sprained ankle and a bad cold who is carrying her mother's ashes to scatter on Clingman's Dome, NC, the highest point on the trail, after which she'll continue on to Maine. That's about the most heartrending story I've heard so far.
Yesterday I was alone all day hiking, and today I was alone because no one had stayed where I started from so I was alone again today. Last night and today were the first times I've seriously thought "Why am I out here? I want to go home."
Now that I've found other humans I feel better. Amy, newly named "Constant" just showed up and I may start hanging with her.

Saturday, April 25, 2009

LIVE FROM GATLINBURG

Spent last night with Sally in a motel in Gatlinburg. I'm waiting for the outfitter to open, then will be heading back to the trail and meeting up with her tonight.


There's a gang that's formed, mostly women, and last night we all got shirts made up: AT logo with "Hiker Trash" and our trail name, surrounded by color bursts. My shirt is light pink, made with the sleeves and collar "ripped off" (looks like trash, $2.99 on the clearance rack), the color swirls are light blue and lavender, and the print is black. Goes perfectly with my black running/hiking mini skirt. I'll get a picture and see if Steve can coordinate it with this post!


My name isn't MacGyver anymore. I'm Yard Sale. When I'm setting up or breaking down camp, I can't get myself organize unless I lay all my stuff out on the ground. They say it looks like I'm having a yard sale. N-Da-Wind named me. She said it's also a skiing term: when a downhill skier wipes out and gear flies everywhere, they call it a yard sale.

So I'm Yard Sale. I like its metaphorical lilt, too: a yard sale is where you get rid of stuff that doesn't serve you anymore and is just cluttering up your life.

Friday, April 24, 2009

LIVE FROM ASHEVILLE, NC

Which is not on the Trail!! A member of my Women Hikers List met Sally and me at a crossing, took Sally to a motel in Gatlinburg, TN, and brought me home with her to Asheville (1.5 hr drive.) I got a wonderful dinner long bath and got my clothes washed and she made me a silnylon stuff sack and helped me weed out unnecessary and redundant stuff from my pack. Later today she'll take me back to Gatlinburg where I'll share the room with Sally tonight, and then S. and I will get back on the Trail tomorrow.

205 miles down. Another 13 (one day's hike or less) and I'll have 1/10 of the distance done. Just have to do it 9 more times. That makes it sound totally doable.

We did one 17 mile day and an 18; usually, lately, it's 12-15. Up, down, up, down, up, down.

No tendon trouble. The skin is coming off my heels, though, despite blister bandages, tape, abrasion covers, everything I can think of. Judy (who brought me to her home) says it'll pass.

Going through Great Smoky Mountains National Park now. Gorgeous.

I hope Judy's scale is wrong. It's showing a 10-pound loss. Last time I checked (motel in Fontana Dam, NC, 4 days ago) I'd lost 7.... over 2 pounds a week. So another 3 in 4 days is alarming. I mean, I'm not too skinny or anything.... I'm just losing so fast it appears I need to eat more. But that means I have to carry it.... Maybe 10 pounds off my body means I can carry 10 pounds more in my pack. Ew. Not.

Gorgeous scenery and wildflowers; funny stories, like the night in a shelter where a mouse gave birth to babies in someone's backpack. I wasn't there for that but Sally was (when she was in one place and I was in another) and the story is all over the Trail.

Have seen no bears, snakes, wild hogs, or even many birds. Couple of white-tailed deer. But the wildflowers are gorgeous. White trillium, trout lilies, YELLOW trillium, and Spring Beauties, gorgeous star-shaped little white flowers with delicate pink brushstrokes.

I miss my family. I miss my husband. I've had some miserable days but mostly I am loving every inch of this Trail.

Wednesday, April 22, 2009

Progress

(Steve) I've added a map to the left side bar that shows Ellie's progress.
Have a look.

Tuesday, April 21, 2009

April 21st update

(Steve) I talked to Ellie last night.
She was spending the night near Fontana Dam, NC. Everythings OK except her carpel tunnel is acting up again.
Today she & the group will be hiking UP! into Great Smokey Mountain National Park.

Sunday, April 19, 2009

April 19th update

I talked to Ellie on Saturday. She was heading out after a two day rest in town. She waited for Sally who had developed a sore knee, and others to catch up. She was planning on making about 11 miles that day, Then 8-11 on Sunday and arriving in the next town Monday morning to re-supply and pick up her new phone and camera card. When she sends me the old one, I will post some pictures. I'm sure she would appreciate cards & letters along the way. Call or e-mail me and I can give you an address where she will be in the near future.
Steve.

Saturday, April 18, 2009

(from Ellie's journal, April 10)

Ten miles farther, yet. Coyotes during the night raised a ruckus, awesome. I thought the first whoops were some kind of owl, until they all got in on it. I loved it.

Rain started just as we were breaking camp. Poured ALL DAY LONG. Cold rain. 11 miles to Carter Gap shelter, which was not in a gap but on a mountain. Glad I stopped when I did because we got horrendous thunderstorms and hail. Stayed under the shelter roof until it let up then hit my tent at 6:30pm and stayed there. Glad I at least was under the rhododendrons and not in the open.
(From Ellie's journal, April 11)

Hoofed hard to make it to Frankin, NC, so i could go to an Easter Service tomorrow. Cloudy but no rain. 13 miles - a half marathon.

Left Behind


(From Ellie's journal, April 8)

There was a reason i didn't go on. When I went to the spring for water I found 2 young men, one with a Bible and the other with a guitar, which he was playing barehanded in the freezing cold. They were out there (WAY out there) seeking Answers. I told them I was, too, and we talked theology until they were near hypothermic. I brought them to the shelter and made them hot tea, they signed my hiking poles, and said they'd found some of their answers in the words we'd exchanged. I told them i had, too.

Last night in the shelter we had 7 people (I was the only woman). Inside we pitched 3 tents and the other 4 slept in between and behind them, so they also had protection from the tents. Envy not, girls....

Feeling Better!

(from Ellie's journal, April 7)

Plan was to go to shelter 5 miles out, I got there and set up my camp, my friends came along and said they were going 5 more miles to the next one.
I stayed Moved my tent into the shelter. Only girl among about 8 guys of various ages. 2 more have their tents in the shelter, 2 in between tents in sleeping bags, several outside in tents. One has a tarp pitched over a hammock. It's windy and snowy. Rhododendron leaves are curled = temps below freezing. Prediction tonight is 21 degrees. sunny tomorrow, 60's, I'm going to try for 11 miles to Hiawasee, where Steve will meet me.

Day of Rest

(from Ellie's journal, April 6)

I woke up feeling like crap. All shaky and sickish and jittery, like after a really hard marathon. N-Da-wind was rarin' to go until she heard the weather forecast, wind advisory and 3-6 inches of snow. So we stayed in Helen, GA for the day. funny "rest" - we walked and walked. We were told there was an outfitter at the other end of town, so we walked maybe a mile there, found out they only sold fishing supplies, and walked back. Then i made a couple more mile round trips to the Dollar Store, drug store, etc.

I have just realized that if I write out all this long prose I'll never keep up. Already I'm backtracking writing entries a day or two late.
R&R = rest and relaxation (or is it recreation?)
RRRR = refuel, rehydrate, rest, relax.

No Water, no Go!

(from Ellie's journal, April 5)

New hiking pal N-Da-Wind and I were together today. We started as a trio including sally, who quickly left us in the dust. We plodded along. N-Da-Wind hikes more slowly than I do, taking more time to stop and smell the roses. But I was slow today; picked up new food and too much of it trying to eat enough. I had more weight than I should have. I also had new boots. I was getting tired very fast. We came to a road after 5 miles. N-Da-Wind was out of water. The only prospect for some shelter was a shelter 2 miles away, 1.2 of that down a steep hill that would have to be re climbed. It's being recommended to avoid actually staying at that shelter due to bear and possible human interlopers. Next one was 5 miles. a lady hiker offered us a ride to town for water, and said she could then return us to the trail afterwards, so we went with her. During the 10 mile ride, I looked at my guidebook and said "N-Da-Wind, there's a million motels there...what do you say about staying in town and getting back on the trail tomorrow?" "Hey, I'm all over that idea," she said. so we did. We'll start tomorrow where we left off.